My fabric is a 50% polyester 50% acetate blend purchased from Fashion Fabric Club not too long ago. I’d forgotten about it because I purchased it mostly to see what this “suiting” would be like. To me, suitings are firm, medium-to-heavily bodied fabrics that will make great jackets and pants. I didn’t feel that way when I first handled this fabric. It was heavy and had a nice drape, but felt more like a winter blouse than jacket or pants. Had I not wanted a dark brown fabric and not taken the time to straighten this particular stack, well it would still be hiding in the stash. I pulled it out simply because I couldn’t find any dark brown fabrics (in my stash) that I thought would be suitable for my Summer 6PAC. When I handled it this time, I wondered if it might be the perfect fabric for the JSM pattern as currently fitted. I don’t remember what color it was described as, but it is a nice dark coffee-bean brown:
Too dark to photo well. To do my review, I lightened the exposure as much as possible with my software and added blue arrows at places of concern.
I’m showing views both with and without the belt. Normally, I need a belt so pants will hang properly. I’m pleased to share that these pants look only slightly better with a belt than without. I can attribute that to months of fitting with the same waistband and properly interfacing the current fabric. There are several vertical lines indicating too much ease. However, I think this is the type of fabric which looks good with the extra ease. It certainly feels comfortable and I note there is no sign of knock knees with this 50/50 fabric as was on the previous pair.
My only real concern is the diagonal wrinkles between ankle and mid-calve. They occur on both fronts but not backs as if I twisted the front leg. It’s possible this fabric slithered off grain during cutting. I thought of it has having a lovely heavy drape, but not slithering around like chiffon or some crepe fabrics. It also has a nap and thus definitely a right and wrong side as well as a up or down grain. I carefully laid out the pattern in one direction and marked the public side. I made only one change to the pattern itself. I shortened the front crotch by 1/2″. I’m not sure if that is perfect or a bit too much. Had this been a knit with stretch, it would be perfect. But as a woven, non-stretch fabric I feel like the crotch is just a smidge too close.
Because of the front leg, if I purchase this fabric again, I’d want to heavily starch before laying out my pattern. I didn’t baste any of the pieces, not even the waistband. I also didn’t add pockets or anything fancy. So this garment received minimal handling.I had inch long ravels by the time I serged the side seams together. In the future I’d finish the edges before doing any other sewing. It was not cheap cheap but at $5/yard I can’t really complain either. No matter how much I pay for fabric, if I finish it totally, like this, I want to wear it for at least 2 seasons. I’m not sure about this fabrics durability. I’m really waiting to see how the fabric wears before deciding upon whether to add more of the same to the stash. As for the pattern, now that the crotch is perfect (I know that every fabric will need minor tweaking) I’d like to develop a similar pattern with less ease for knits and eliminate the ease indicated by the vertical lines on this pair. I will keep this version because I have other fabrics which will look as good as this pair.