I continued trying to fit TJ902 Rain Coat Edition. Funny enough, adding ease around the waist only added more wrinkles. Taking in the inseam to reduce the fabric on the inner leg, caused the pant to fit uncomfortably through the crotch and didn’t necessarily help with those wrinkles. Adding ease for the back hip area resulted in V lines above the back crotch and the crotch began sinking between my cheeks. Since giving more ease didn’t help, how about removing some? In addition to making the pant uncomfortable across the torso, it truly looked like I was hiding a watermelon in front. While in the back, the light reflection from the prominent point of my rear end, was blinding. It could be that this rain coat-esque fabric simply cannot be used in a slacks pattern. As I recall, I had a blue pair of similar fabric. There were deep front pleats and a gathered waistline. Of course, this was 30 years ago and I was definitely much lighter. So the other option could be adding much more ease. Like 6-8 inches and changing to a true trouser pattern. I may yet create a true trouser with that much ease, just not today.
I did one other alteration not shown in the previous pages. I let out all the changes and stitched the inseam at it’s original stitching line. At tissue fitting time, I added 5/8″ to the inseams. So that would mean that the original stitching line was 1.25″ from the edge. I was concerned not only with the crotch fit, but how the legs seem to lean inwards. In each pic I’m standing with my feet 6.5″ apart -a normal stance for me. The inner leg always meets. Every pic, front and back, the inseams snuggle up to each other. Thinking back, I had altered the front for a knock knee adjustment by moving the lower half of the leg towards center, then truing the seam lines. I did not apply the same adjustment to the back. To the back, I added the 5/8″ as indicated at the beginning of this paragraph. I’ve most likely over compensated for knock knees. I would have thought that stitching at the 1.25″ line would have negated, erased, gotten rid of the last knock knee adjustment applied. No, that didn’t happen. What’s worse is that even though the pant overall felt comfortable, the front crotch seemed to be too low, the back crotch developed those pesky V lines and the diagonal lines indicating knock knees are about the same as always.
This pattern is not perfect. But it meets 5 of my wearable tests:
- *The waist treatment must hold the waistline in the desired place
- *The crotch fits smoothly from front waist to back waist
- *The an!l orifice is invisible.
- Conceal the lumpy bumpy aspect of my figure while still suggesting that I am womanly. .
- *Comfortable when worn.
- *End at one of my preferred lengths.
- Be one of my preferred colors.
#7 Be one of my preferred colors. The rose-pink is one of my preferred colors but for tops, not for pants. I will wear rose-pink as shorts, or in a light weight fabric as summer trousers. Also this is a muslin. I can choose a more desirable color when I make “good” pants. Really #7 is a push.
#4 Conceal the lumpy bumpy aspect of my figure while still suggesting that I am womanly . Is an almost. My tummy is still prominent (which I will cover with my tops) and there is still excess fabric under the bum and around the knees. Oddly, adding ease for knock knees and shifting the pattern inward 1″ did nothing to improve the wrinkles eminating from the knees. My old stand by of scoop the bottom of the crotch while lifting the back, had absolutely no effect. None. I know that other fabrics may be a little more cooperative; a little less revealing, but this is essentially as good as it gets on my body:
I’ve decided to accept it and move on.