I transferred my grain and balance lines as well as possible with permanent ink. It is hard to fit myself with just a mirror. It is easier to see the issues by using a camera, but still not easy to tell exactly where changes need to be made. The grain and balance lines help in that regard. I interfaced the waistband, but not the hems or fly area. I serge finished all the seams and since all the markings were on one side, I stitched the darts and front tucks to the outside. Most of this was sewn with a 4mm length stitch, even the zipper. Then I tried t on.
- First Try On
There is no doubt in my mind that this rain coat muslin pant is far from perfect. The waistband, as expected, fit perfectly. This muslin I’m evaluating 6 belt-loops. Placed 2 about 1.5″ on either side of center front, 2 on the side seam about 3/4″ towards the center back; and 2 about 1.5″ on either side of the center back. This is an immediate improvement just in not having to stitch though all those layers at the center back. But more than that the back seems to be evenly supported. I think the front loops are too close to the center front. I’ve previously placed the front belt loops at the grain line of each front. That leaves the center front unsupported and prone to drooping. The current position is better than center of leg, but not exactly in the right place either. Next time I will keep the side and back belt loops in the same position, but I will move the front belt loops about 2″ from the center front. Essentially, the waistband is good and 6 belt-loops appear to be good support. I just need to tweak the position of the belt loops.
To my surprise, just by tracing and using the crotch from the master pattern, the back crotch looked good. The front wasn’t too bad either.
My only crotch issue was the little bubble below the back waistband. My first alteration was shortening the back crotch rise. I tried pinching out a horizontal wedge. Which worked but was awkward and left much to be desired on either side. I removed the wedge and set the waistband lower in center back but even at the side seams.
- Back Rise adjustment
This worked well, creating a smooth upper hip. Surprisingly, I saw a reduction in wrinkles, in the legs, under the bu!t, on the sides and front!!!