sdBev's Pants!

Choosing “Muslin”

Posted on: March 31, 2013

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After defining tests for a good fit, evaluating the last muslin and making  a new/nearly new tissue, I turned my attention to choosing a test fabric, a muslin.

My muslin order still hadn’t arrived. What I’ve pulled out of the stash and placed into the muslin box is a combination of polyester double knits, quilting cottons and blouse weight knits. None is suitable for a pant muslin.   I decided it didn’t matter how good I thought the fabric was. If I was ever to create a pant pattern which fit,  I needed to sacrifice a pant-weight, light-colored fabric.

As I stood there staring at my stash, my eyes alighted upon a rose-pink, heavy, polyester twill. It occurred to me that rose-pink would not make a good choice for winter pants which is what this fabric might be suitable for.  Unless I never go outside. As soon as I go outside, the winter snow, sleet and rain will kick up black mud and tars which immediately ruin any of my pastel fabrics. I may as well put the fabric to a good use, making a muslin, as to a) donate to the Goodwill or b) stitch and wear pants one time.

I pulled the fabric off the shelf and thought “Ewe, what is this?”  It’s 4 yards (at 58″ wide) fabric that I would have happily worn to work 15-20 years ago. It’s a testament to how man-made fabrics have improved (and perhaps a warning against stashing fabrics). I wondered if I had picked up rain coating by mistake. Uh, no. Water absorbs readily. Like immediately. This would not be good in the rain.  It feels and rustles like a rain coat. I think I made a very good decision to use this now.  I had 4 yards. After cutting my muslin the remaining 2 yards were consigned to the muslin box.I transferred my grain and balance lines as well as possible with permanent ink.  It is hard to fit myself with just a mirror.  It is easier to see the issues by using a camera, but still not easy to tell exactly where changes need to be made.  The grain and balance lines help in that regard.  I interfaced the waistband, but not the hems or fly area. I serge finished all the seams and since all the markings were on one side, I stitched the darts

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