Evaluating the Last”Muslin”

Having defined what I want in pants, I looked at the last tissue, last muslin, the grey, pant-weight, wool gabardine:

Now understand, this muslin was the result of 3 tissues, 4 muslins and 33 fitting sessions with 33+ fitting changes. The waistband became perfect on the first muslin. The length and side seam position were changed slightly. I did note that the belt loops were not evenly supporting the pant-body. I asked SG members for suggestions and I will be trying differing number and placements of the belt loops. Nonetheless, the waistband is NEAR PERFECT and I kept it as drafted for the new pant tissue.

The front had achieved wearable status early on. There were various winkles indicating side and back issues but there appears to be sufficient ease excepting about 2″ down from the waist. Right over the tummy.  The front crotch is smooth if I ignore the “v” line underneath the zipper.  I’ve had various dimples in this area. Since I’m consistently working with 5/8″ seam allowances and monkeying with both inseam widths and crotch curves, I tend to feel the crotch will be completely smooth only when I can trim the SA to 1/4″.  There did seem to be some pulling along the front inseam which was alleviated by letting out the the front inseam to it’s maximum. I decided the front was good, maybe a little excess ease. Besides the tummy will be covered by my tops and it is so much better than first versions.  I retrieved the front tissue, carefully pressed the tissue to remove wrinkles and set it with the waistband.

Then I looked at the back. There just is nothing I can point out as being right. Even the length has become too short. The crotch extensions are monsterously long.There is too much ease across the back just below the waistline. While VPL indicates  insufficient hip ease. The crotch both bubbles indicating too long and pulls into the crotch indicating too short. I decide to start fresh on the back pattern piece.  From the master pattern for TJ902, I traced a new back, in the correct size.  I added the grain and balance lines. I shortened the seat-to-knee length. As on the front, the rise is shortened by  1/4″.

Since the appearance of  knock knees really does seem to be an issue of mine, I added 5/8″ width along the inseam to both front and back tissue pieces.

I made a change to the dart configuration. On the back I marked two  3/8  darts on either side of the grain line. I shorten one to 5″ the other is 4″ long.  In the past I’ve found I needed a second dart. So far, I’ve already increased the back dart to a depth of  3/4″ . I think a wide dart distorts the waistline.  I think a big honking dart, 1″ or more, distorts the entire piece. For the front, I marked five 1″ lines 1.5″ apart. I plan to make small tucks evenly spaced across the front to control the ease at the waistline. Both gathering and darts seem to create additional drag lines. It’s as if, yes the ease needs to be controlled, but not exactly where the darts and gathering are occurring.  I’m giving myself options. Choices of how to handle the ease.