sdBev's Pants!

A Thinking Pause

Posted on: March 28, 2013

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Sorry for the sudden pause in my posts.  You see I have completed 3 tissues and 4 muslins for Trudy Jansen’s pattern #902 Basic Pants.  Each muslin seemed better than the previous. Each tissue was the accumulation of all the previous changes.  My goal was to have one tissue  summarizing all the changes. One tissue that would produce near perfect pants. With a near perfect pant pattern, I could easily compare a new pattern. I could confidently proclaim, the new pattern  needs… 1″ more at the waist. Or maybe the crotch needs to be 3/8″ shorter.  Whatever the differences, they could be quickly identified; assessed as styling change or needed fitting change. To my utter surprise, with the creation of each new tissue, the fitting process began all over again. Worse yet, every change seemed to again  add excess fabric under the bu!t. At the same time the crotch pulled indicating that more ease was required. When I finished this Muslin

I thought ‘d done it. Yes I can see that some fitting tweaks might still be needed. But this was a quilting cotton. It really didn’t hang as I would expect a pant weight fiber/fabric. I decided to create a 3rd tissue, accumulating all the changes and and cut a final muslin. Excepting, I couldn’t find a muslin fabric.  My fabric order, made specifically to add pant-weight, muslin fabrics, had not arrived.  I studied my shelves and thought: surely at this point (see photo above), surely I was close enough that wearable muslin was in order. Surely. I chose a pant-weight wool gabardine and began the cutting.

I was wrong. I spent 2 days trying to fit what should be a good pant fabric.  Every change I made added more wrinkles under the bu!t. It was de ja vu. I was back in 2005 having discovered the digital camera as a fitting aid and trying to fit pants. Everything that I thought I knew; everything that I knew should work; didn’t. In fact it made it worse. I promise you, I made change after change after change, and these were the best:

I realized, I was caught in this loop  of adding more fabric between my legs without improving the back view even one little bit. Everything I was doing– every scoop, lift, pinch trim– was wrong and needed rethinking. So I started over.

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