sdBev's Pants!

TJ902: Muslin2, Fitting Changes.

Posted on: March 24, 2013

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I went right for the problem at the crotch.  Being this is a muslin, I opened the back crotch seam about 3″ just before the inseam crosses.  I slashed the fabric at the flattest part of the curve towards the knee for about 2 inches.  I used scraps and made no effort to align grain before basting the scraps in place adding  1/2″   to the crotch extension. Then I took pics. Before you look let me tell you a few things. First, the pant feels comfortable at the waistline and through out except that the fabric keeps wanting to creep in between my cheeks. That is definitely uncomfortable and I pulled sharply at the back  and then smoothed the fabric into place:

To my shock both front and back crotch problems are virtually gone.  A close examination of the back crotch shows kind of a flat spot, which is puzzling. The front shows a dimple underneath the zipper stitching.  The back I’m attributing to the fabric and pulling it as I did. As for the front, I’m beginning to believe that interfacing is a requirement for this area.  Even though comfortable, I do think that the crotch extension still needs to be extended. Maybe 1/4″ more.

I suppose I could finesse the legs’ appearance by letting out the side and inseams below the crotch. Since I know the issue is the combination of a too long seat-knee length with an excessive knock-knee alteration AND it’s on a muslin, I’ve decided just to take note to make adjustments before I start working with  a wearable fabric or the next muslin.

I was more concerned about the folds and wrinkles above the hip balance line:

These wrinkles start around the waist, travel in various directions and terminate in different places. But they all point to the waist and end above the hip-balance line.  It’s possible I have  the darts in the wrong position. That’s a likely candidate since most of the wrinkles start  either around the 4 front tucks or 4 back darts.  Since this was trousers I decided to quickly test my theory by taking out the 2 extra back-darts and all 4 front tucks.  I ran a quick gathering line, matched sides and center back and then pulled on the gathering-line ends to ease the pant to the waistband.

I know not everyone would be pleased with the photo above. I’m pretty sure I could more carefully spread out the gathering and have  a look that I like. Most likely I’d simply cover it up because I hem my tops at the hip or lower.  I believe gathering the pant waistline confirms that my darts are in the wrong place ….

…OR…

 It’s also possible I added too much ease when I altered the front and back tissue after tracing and when comparing measurements.  I was thinking this was a trouser pattern. I expect more ease in a trouser pattern than I do with slacks or jeans. I expect jeans to have the least ease and the closest fit. These are not jeans.  But is this a pattern for slacks?  I miss the Sew4Fun site. She had a wonderful, easy-to-understand but detailed explanation of the difference between the 3 drafts. Each covers your bottom and a portion or all of your legs, but the grain lines, ease and crotch shapes are very different.  All along I’ve been assuming I need a certain amount of fullness (ease)  across the torso. If this is a slacks pattern, I do not need the same amount of ease.  If this is a trousers pattern, I may need more circumference ease around the legs!  This gives me pause, what am I creating here? It makes a huge difference as to what alterations and fitting changes I should be making.

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I deliberately did not show the photos of the entire muslin at this final stage. After adding a whiff of starch and careful pressing, I slipped the muslin on and pulled into place. It felt fine. Then I belted it. I always wear a belt. I always fit with my belt in place.  As I was taking photos I kept thinking about how my waistline dimension changes from day-to-day sometimes hour-to-hour. That’s the most common factor for pants (on me)  to feel comfortable in the morning but too tight or too loose later on.  So I’m watching Netflix with one-eye, posing, taking pics, and wondering if I should add the 1/2″ length I removed from the waistband. Until I sat down at the computer. Immediately, I realized I had belted on the 3rd hole instead of the 2nd. When I tighten my belt too tightly my pants hoist themselves above the natural waistline. All the measured balance lines are out-of-place. The crotch is far too short. All other issues are clearly exacerbated by this one error: my belt being on the hole too far. I considered taking new pictures. But my focus on the last fitting as how the ease of the waistline was distributed along the waistband. I was eager to see that and decide the direction to take. Ergo, you get to see only the waistline pics. Believe, me you don’t want to see the others.

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