sdBev's Pants!

TJ902: Altering the Back Tissue

Posted on: March 19, 2013

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I altered the front tissue first because I already knew the back was going to be difficult.  My worksheet said I needed to add 1-7/8 to the back crotch length. I had made a tracing of the crotch from TJ906. I knew it would be at least 1-1.5″ shorter than this new pattern. A quick comparison showed my estimate to be correct. Once the waistband width was added to the tracing of TJ906, the crotch depths would nearly match.  The crotch extensions were woefully different. I questioned that 1-7/8 measurement. I went back to the computer and verified all the calculations. Yep another 2 hours at the computer because while the front looked as I expected, the back was puzzling me. I  remembered I had added to the back extension with every muslin while the crotch depth had to be decreased.  TJ906 had V-wrinkles directly above the back crotch until I shortened the upright portion of the back crotch. Anytime I scooped the crotch of TJ906, the V-lines returned. I was sure the depth should not be increased on TJ902.  I added the crotch length needed to the crotch extension. I added the length by slicing the pattern about 2″ from the outside edge of the inseam and all the way down to the knee. I swung the tip out the needed amount and filled in the resulting wedge with tissue paper.

My next consideration was width across the torso. Surprisingly the waist would need 1/4″ added right at the waistline, but a mere 2″ lower, 1.5″ needed to be removed. I’m sure this is why my pants’ side seams always lean forward. I need 1.5″ in the front. If I don’t alter the tissue my body takes the 1.5″ from the back where it isn’t needed.

Before I do anything about the waist, I look carefully at the hip on the pattern and that crucial point 6.5″ below the waist. That crucial point where my bu!t is at its widest.  BTW I had considered whether my rear was higher than the pattern rear. I’m still not sure. When the length-ease is added, my rear should be within the zone for which  the standard draft is created. I may change the crotch length when fitting with fabric. But for now I feel like waiting to see what happens. My chart shows that from 4 to 6.5 inches below the waist I should add more ease. ??? I chose the larger the size.  It really should have about 2″ ease. Yet clearly I need to add 1/2″ at the 4″, 6″ and 6.5″ levels. Which suddenly needs to remove 1-1/8″ at the 8″ level. I leave the 8″ level alone. I can pin excess out, but it’s harder to add more ease once the fabric is cut.  I add 1/2″ to the side seam between the waist and 6.5″  level by adding a wedge between waist and two inches below the knee.  I plan to use 2 back darts whose length and depth will be decided when fitting the fabric. I true the grain line and balance lines and take a quick photo.

Whew, finally I can walk the side seams. I follow Lena’s instructions and match the balance lines (knee, seat and hip) along the way.  I find that I need to trim the leg length about 1/8″ on the back and trim the top of the front side-seam about the same. I’m satisfied that these slight differences are reasonable for all the slashing, spreading and overlapping which has occurred. I walk the inseams. I pin the inseams along the stitching line. To my surprise the back inseam is shorter than the front and when opened flat, very oddly  joined.  I mark the stitching line at the crotches and inseams. I pin the at the juncture of crotch and inseam stitching line. The back point sticks up. When the seam is opened the crotch seam looks as expected (other than the back-point sticking up). I trim the point even with the front crotch. But then I worry.  The back inseam will need to be eased to the front. This is a jean fitting technique designed to get a closer fit in the rear. I’m not aware of this as being a design feature on TJ902, a trouser or slack pattern. Usually trouser inseams match evenly. This is my worry spot.

 

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