I spent a good 2 hours transferring the fitting changes made to the muslin onto my tissue pattern. I examined each seam for the changes in seam width and in some cases consolidated two or more changes into a single change to the tissue. I was conservative with the measurements of the changes. I felt the muslin could have stretched in places which I wouldn’t see and couldn’t accurately account for when altering the tissue. I added another 1/4″ wedge to the front tissue and 1″ to the length of the waistband. I also moved the side seam mark on the waistband, towards the center front 1/2″. I walked the seams again, this time with the back yoke attached then turned my attention to fabric.
At this point, I’d like to construct a wearable muslin. So I want a light-colored, pant weight fabric. I searched though my stash and selected fabrics. But then I discarded them one by one. Several wouldn’t have a drape similar to denim. Theyd’ make great trousers or slacks, but be disappointing as jeans. A crinkled, heavy weight cotton has some mechanical stretch. Good for wear, not good for testing the pattern fit. Insufficient yardage nixed a few. The fabric I settled upon is a very firm bodied cotton-blend twill. I bought the whole bolt when Walmart placed it on the dollar table. Over the years I’ve made several trousers from this fabric. It wears like iron. I never discarded a pair for being worn. In retrospect, it too wasn’t a good choice. Denim needs a little give to be comfortable. This fabric doesn’t have any give and the completed pants may not be worn often or kept in my wardrobe because I’ve become accustomed to more comfortable fabrics.
This is the best back from 8 different changes made to the fabric.. It is the result of scooping the crotch another 3/8″, moving the side seams 3/8″ forward on the waistband; letting out the front side seam 3/8″ and the belt loop placement. I’m beginning to suspect I have one hip high than the other. In every picture of the back at least a hint of the right diagonal line exists. Then again, i have a tendency to stand with my weight on one leg or the other. The back yoke under the waistband was impossible to completely smooth. When the side seam is aligned with the mark on the waistband, short vertical lines develop in the center back. When smoothed by moving the side seam forward on the waistband, a hint of VPL occurs. If the back of the side seam is released even 1/4″ the side is poofy and the under-bu!t sags again.
Despite the diagonal wrinkles, the pant side seam has become amazingly straight.
The front is improved, but I could never eliminate the smile lines. If I scoop the crotch, the back develops the under butt wrinkles. If I shorten the back crotch the front develops smile lines. If the inseam is let out, the front develops poofiness and the back develops V-lines above the crotch. If I lift at the top of the pant above where the diagonal lines are developing front-side-back, all the wrinkles above the crotch disappear on the front but the smile lines remain. At the same time the back develops a huge X extending from knees to hip (and center over the an@l.
I had the first 3 changes done within the first hour. I spent another 4 hours tweaking the other areas before deciding the just finish this pant. I had stitched the seams with a 3.5mm stitch length. It will hold for several wearings and was easy enough to remove. I had to understitch the waistband and finish the center front edges including closure. I also let the hems out by adding a bias tape facing. I know what has happened. I keep pulling up to take out the back wrinkles followed by scooping the crotch for comfort. This in turn is allowing the whole pant to ride higher. The leg isn’t any shorter, it slid further up on my body.
I’m not going to transfer any of the changes to the pattern. I don’t think I’ve discovered the cause of my pant fitting issues. I’m planning next to work with a basic trouser pattern. Trousers are more forgiving. They have more ease and fewer pieces. Several times I wanted to add a dart, but was unable to do so because of the back yoke. The waistline now feels too loose while the tummy still feels tight. The textbook solution for tummy ease, adds length which I don’t think is needed. The front is already folding between zipper and crotch. More length, would only make that worse.
I just spent an hour or so reading the reviews of the Thurlow pattern (which I own.) Had I read the review and seen the pics, I would not have purchased the pattern. . I’m dismayed to see the level of fit which is considered “perfect”. To be fair, there were several pics in dark colors, a few with only the front side visible and several of shorts. Cut off the leg and most pants fit acceptably. But those that I could see and could examine, were not up to my standard. My TJ906 pant above, with all its issues, fits better than what the reviewers are calling “perfect out of the envelope”.