906

Bu!tLift

I decided against pinning, pinching and stitching in new tucks and darts. Instead I decided to give the whole bu!t area a redo and uplift. I ripped out and apart the back pieces and pressed them flat. I carefully marked a horizontal line perpendicular to the gain lines on each piece, roughly the same distance from the crotch balance line.  I folded along that line and made a 5/8″ tuck on each of the 4 back pieces.  Then I stitched them together on the original 5/8″ seam line.

Next I completely ripped the waistband off, pressed carefully and marked the center front, center back and side seam lines.

There is a problem for me when fitting over multiple days, as I have with the last 2 muslins.  My waist and stomach will actually change depending upon the time of day, what I’ve eaten and how sluggish my bowel is. What fits today, may be too tight tomorrow. Conversely, a perfect fit this morning, may hang off my hips after lunch activities.  I need to allow extra ease for those days when I’m bloated. That’s one of the reasons why nearly every picture shown has me wearing a belt. My belt is the equalizer.  My belt will keep the pant hanging in the right position no matter the activity of my bowel. As long as the pants hang correctly from the waist, and don’t bunch in the crotch, I’m accepting of the fit. 

For the last week I’ve been carefully indicating the position of the center front and side seams. Today, I had to move both and add a little ease to the waistband.  I’m not unhappy at having to do this. Action now prevents grief later. But it added to the time needed to baste the garment together with bu!t lift in place. I also moved the stitching line downward on the front. In effect, I stuffed another 5/8″ into the waistband which raised the front.

Finally I had to know if the front inner-thigh wrinkles could be fixed by adding more ease to the back inseam. I ripped the inseam apart and pressed the seam allowances flat. Then I marked the 5/8″ stitching line on the front inseam. I carefully aligned the serged-edge of the back inseam along the 5/8″ seam allowance. Using a bridging stitch, I joined the two.  That means, there is ZERO seam allowance on the back inseam and 5/8″ on the front inseam.

After careful pressing, I tried them on and took pictures.  My first reaction was that the waist did indeed feel more comfortable than it did yesterday. The crotch once again seems a bit tight. The pictures say:

Let’s do this with the redrawn balance lines and start with the side:

I know I keep claiming the side line is as straight as it gets, but it did it again. There is hardly any change of direction in the side seam line. I look at the horizontal balance lines with just a little, you know, grain of salt.  I know when I’m putting pencil to paper that horizontal lines have to curve when they are indicating a columnar object. So as long as there is no dramatic change in the direction of the curve, I think the horizontal balance lines on my pants are probably a result of the camera bending the lines. I may be wrong. So I do note that the front horizontal lines seem to be a little higher than the back. But I plan no corrective actions. I’m pretty pleased with the overall appearance of the side. I think I need to lift the side just little more but I also see VPL on the side back and tummy roll on the front.  I do think I should let out the side seam to add a little ease and that could change the amount or even if the lift is needed. Honestly, side looks pretty good. I could put on a typical blouse and wear this.

Let’s take a look at the back

First thing I looked for were those pesky V-lines above the crotch. While not nearly as bad as the first fitting, there is still a hint that the back crotch is too long. From the horizontal balance line at the flare down to the floor, I think this pant looks OK. Maybe a little more pressing along the seam allowance is needed. I see all the diagonals above. I don’t think they are indicating the knock knees. My physical mid-knee is 1.5″ above the lower-leg, horizontal, balance line. The diagonals start well above my knee.  I think we’re also seeing that a bit more ease across the tush is needed. Not as much as I added before; and this time it needs to be added as a curve rather than the wedge I did way back then (yesterday wasn’t it?). If these were denim, I’d love the look across the upper hip and yoke.  Since we’re not using denim, or a stretch fabric, and I already saw from the side that these were too tight, I ‘m thinking again, let out the side seams.

On to the front:

They say the back tells the story about pants, and it does, but not before the front has had it’s say.  From the way the vertical balance line (blue) undulates across folds of fabric, I’d say  the 5/8″ I lifted was enough at the center front but not enough towards the sides.  Even though it feels more comfortable at the waist, and I don’t think I’ll change the waistband length again on this muslin, the pant does look tight across the tummy and abdomen.  Again I’m thinking, let out the sides. Up close, the crotch is not forming the true camel toe that was apparent before.  The lines pulling there tell me that dang back crotch still needs room.  If this was a stretch fabric or even denim, I think the issue would be solved.  I do want to use this pattern with corduroy and velvet so I’m going to continue adjusting until I get the back crotch extension the right length. I note there are still inner-thigh wrinkles.   They aren’t any the less for the additional 1/4″ added to the back inseam. I haven’t trimmed the crotch seam yet.  I know that the crotch, especially in a non-stretch fabric, won’t lay correctly until that seam is trimmed between 1/4-3/8″. Even 1/2″ will have a negative effect on how the crotch is able lay against the body. Then again, I feel like I’m grasping at straws.

To reach this point, and write this post has taken 5-1/2 wasted hours. Hours that would not have been wasted if I’d known that the torso was too long. I had just measured my crotch for the MSS. The MSS uses a close measurement. Once constructed, with the proper elastic, the MSS slides down and should sit just under the natural waistline. That’s where TJ906 should also sit. I thought as long as the measurements were the same, the crotch would fit.  I couldn’t tell.  I really saw no other indication.  Shout out, clap, and kudos to

NEDRA.  

Back on March the 9th, Nedra suggested that the back V-lines might be the result of having scooped the crotch too deeply.  Having not scooped at all, at that time, I mentally filed away her suggestion for future reference. BTW, I looked in my pants fitting books and nowhere were these Vlines identified.

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