sdBev's Pants!

Fitting the Orange Version

Posted on: March 13, 2013

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Interestingly or should I say much to my relief, transferring the changes of the previous muslin to tissue and cutting a new muslin has not worsened any of the issues.  I’m about where I left off.  When sewing together I realized I had not attached the yoke before truing the side seams. What I thought were matched lengths, turned out to be too long on the side back.  In the pics which follow, it looks like there might be an additional yoke. Nope that’s just the 3/8″ wedge/dart I made across the back leg to make the side seams match once the yoke was attached.

I want to start my review by looking at the side.  But I want to show you what I look at. For that reason I’m showing the pictures where I draw over the balance lines. I call these my Line Views.

No more fitting efforts have been made. This is the first trial of the new orange muslin. The side balance line is much straighter than it has been in previous versions. It drifts from waistband towards the rear at the crotch balance line, but then wavers back towards the front and finally the segment from knee to ankle appears to be fairly straight.  The drifting is not major, but does help me determine where I lack ease. To my surprise the the crotch balance line I drew on the back, nearly matches the front. I always trace the bottom of the waistband, but I don’t let it determine any changes.  My waist is tilted. As long as the waistband is tilted, I think that’s the way it should be. It should be following my waist.  What I examine are  the horizontal balance lines at the crotch and knee.  These appear to be lifting at the inseam.

That’s much more clear when looking at green horizontal balance lines on the back view. The blue lines, are vertical balance and align along the grain.  The blue lines (vertical balance)  aren’t really bad but I wouldn’t say that’s my finest sewing either.  The good thing is I can now see exactly where I need to add ease for the bu!t. The high hip is really very smooth. It could use a little improvement but the fabric is not hung up just below the waistline. It’s dropping smoothly from the waistband, across the yoke and upper hip. There is almost a clear ledge indicated by light and both the side and back vertical balance lines. What looks like a hint of knock knees is occurring well above my natural knee.  My physical mid-knee occurs 1.5″ above the lowest green balance line.  I wonder if this will disappear when the bu!t has all the ease it needs and the pant is able to slide into place?  All the V’s are still above the back crotch.  Nothing I’ve yet done has made those go away.

The front is the worst view. The vertical balance lines (blue) are undulating across wrinkles, fold and pull lines.The horizontals clearly indicate that they are being lifted up and into the cr0tch. It is too bad that the back inseam increase didn’t help the front.  I’m not sure if I need to add more ease over the tummy or if adding the ease across the bu!t will allow the front to recover and provide the ease needed.

I’m undecided how to handle the front. I think the side and back would immediately benefit if I would let out the seams over the bu!t.

I will say that if I were still wearing tunic-length tops, I might just wear this pair. Each change has made the pants look better and feel better. Sometimes I just need to be grateful for the good in my life,,,and almost fitting clothes.

My first attempt at fitting  was to add more room for my bu!t. I let out the seam which joined the two back leg pieces. I let it out between yoke and the crotch balance lines adding 3/4″ at the yoke but narrowing to nothing at the crotch balance line. Not sharing pics here, but it did help as far as comfort and some wrinkles.

Then I did something I hate to do. Something I seldom do.  I made 3 changes at once.  (1) I offset the side seam from waistband down 6″.  I made the front seam allowance 3/8″ while keeping the back at 5/8″.  I felt that the waist at the back needed no extra room, while there were still hints of my tummy in front. The alteration I made added 1/2″   ease across the front ONLY.  (2) Then I turned my attention to the front inner thigh wrinkles. My inner thigh is slim. You can always see daylight between my thighs whether I weigh 96 pounds or 196 pounds. My inner thighs are slim. So why the drag lines on the front? The lines develop only from the inseam and are diagonally orientated.  Both the front and back views show the crotch pulling towards the center of the body. When I added the 1″  wedge for the crotch, the front bubbled and developed camel toe. I’d already added 3/4″ to the back between crotch and hem. Did I still need to add more to the front?  Did I still need to add to the crotch length?  I decided to play it safe. Rather than adding to one side or the other, I let out the inseam  between crotch and knee. At the crotch the inseam is 3/8″ wide.  I have in effect added 1/4″ to both front and back crotch extensions and along the inseam. (3) I reasoned that nothing I have done so far had any effect upon the V wrinkles above the back crotch.  Even letting out the center back seam (for which I haven’t posted a pic) had any effect upon the V wrinkles. Thing is if you always do what you always did; you will always get what you always got. It may sound contrite, but the encouragement is: try something else. If this isn’t working; if this isn’t having any effect; try something else. My something else was to take a wedge only on the inner back leg, about 3″ below the yoke. It is 3/8″ wide at the seam between the two leg pieces, narrowing to nothing just before the crotch/center back seam. And the result?

.

The front looks better then ever. My tummy roll is no longer visible. However, there is excess ease across the front and the camel toe is horribly in evidence.Verdict: stitch the front crotch seam back at 5/8″. Also there was little or no effect on the front inner-thigh wrinkles.  Whatever is causing those, are not along the front inseam. Oddly the front legs seems to be slightly tilted towards the inner leg.  The side seam has actually worsened with greater variances as it drifted from side to side now from top to bottom.  The V lines above the back crotch are markedly decreased but there appears to be excess ease across the back including the bu!t which previously seemed to be begging for more room.  The back grain lines are near vertical except they pull sharply to the center back about 6″ down from the yoke. The extra fabric gained from releasing the back leg seams was spread between center back and 2″ from the side seam. I’m not sure at this point whether I need to put the extra ease in that last 2 inches before the side seam or if I need to take those seams in some. To be honest the current view is better than ever before. Yet, I’m not satisfied. If I could fix the crotch front and back, I’d probably ignore most of the issues and start making pants.

But since that has happened, I’ll made more tweaks. Again with the the Line Views:

The difference would be more evident had I compared the two versions side by side. But while I know there are improvements, the most intriguing change occurred when I pinned out just a pinch below the waistband on the front:

Only one leg has been “pinched”.  I think it’s astonishing at how many wrinkles have gone away on that leg, including that the inner thigh wrinkles are diminished.  Even the side view is telling:

It would seem that in trying to get enough fabric around my body by going up 2 sizes, the torso as well as the leg has gotten much to long.

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