sdBev's Pants!

Tj906–Opps!

Posted on: March 9, 2013

I’ve been silent but not inactive.  I’ve been sewing and sewing. Ripping and stitching.  I added a 1″ wedge to the front inseam and crotch.

I added a 1″ wedge to the side.

I trimmed and trimmed the flare until it was only 20″ (my personal maximum).

I slashed the rear and let it drop…

…which surprisingly helped the front camel toe a little, but did nothing for the v-wrinkles in back. BTW, I did this after watching the very informative jeans fitting video from Peggy Saggers.   Peggy’s reasoning makes lots of sense.  She reasons similarly to Gale Grieg Hansen  and Nancy Zieman’s busy woman’s alterations. The later two address fitting issues from the stand point of adding and removing fabric according to what you can see on the body in place of redrafting patterns and making multiple muslins.  It is good reasoning and makes me send hugs to Peggy. But the alteration Peggy  recommended for me didn’t help.  In place of the smooth upper hip area, I now have bubbles and folds.  Most of the V wrinkles, remain and while the front camel toe appearance was improved, it wasn’t eliminated. To my horror, the 2 or 3 diagonal lines below the derriere became masses of undulating and conflicting folds of fabric.  I was thoroughly disappointed.  (For info purposes I made a 1/2″ back wedge using Peggy’s methodology.)

Then I realized the only change I hadn’t made to this version of TJ906 was scooping.  I wanted to see a major difference. Even majorly in the wrong direction would have been acceptable. But there was little if any change to the back X wrinkles, the above butt V wrinkles or the front camel toe.

The 1″ wedge recommended by Peggy Sagers has been removed and replaced by scooping 1/2″ from the crotch

I’m also one to make the changes in small increments about 1/4″ each time. So yes I added 1″ to the side wedge, but it took 6 (rip, insert, stitch trim) attempts. Yes 6, because the 5th one at 1.25″ was obviously too much requiring that I rip and stitch  to return the wedge to 1″.  My point, that while I may appear that I made a mere 4 changes, it was really closer to 30.

I set the linen pants aside.. Not deliberately but because it was time to do the laundry.  I’m the oddity who likes to press my clothing before wearing.  Yes pressing takes times, but in this case ironing gave time to me to think.  I got stuck on one thought. Why is it that I’ve used this pattern over and over with minor changes and now I’m making major alterations with little effect? Why? I’ve been using this pattern 5 years. I’ve used it as I became thinner and thinner; and again when my weight crept up.  Each time I felt the need for a different size, I measured my rear end; checked the pattern sizing; selected the size closest to my measurement, traced cut  and stitched.  The first version never requires more than cutting a few inches off the legs and scooping 1/2″  in from the crotch. Why was I making all these changes? Why?  I was adding so much to the crotch (1″ wedge) and side seams (1″ wedge) and waistline (two 3/8″ wedges), I began to think that I had traced the wrong size.  You know what I decided?  I decided that AnnR of Stitchers Guide was right: “..this is a process. .. ”  Just because I’m making jeans instead of tailoring a jacket doesn’t mean the sentiment is not applicable. There are times and when you need to work through the process carefully, step by step and patiently

 

… What else but to be continued….

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3 Responses to "Tj906–Opps!"

Hi Bev,

I’m going to throw this out there, and it might not help you, but the pull lines on the back seat area look similar to some I’ve had. I *THINK* you might have taken too much of a scoop Vertically (not talking about under the cc). Could you try taking LESS of a s.a. (say 1/2 of whatever you have left ) in the area where there are pull lines? You won’t have to trim anything away for sure, it might be worth a shot!

Best wishes on the pants. They’re great, btw!
Nedra

Nedra
You were onto something. I hadn’t scooped but the back crotch is too long. Thanks for suggesting this fix.

Oh Super, Bev! I’m so happy to have been a little help! 🙂

On your latest version, from what I see now (Wed 3/13), I think the only thing you might need is about 1/4″ more of crotch depth; this would eliminate those front wrinkles and the back ones too , I *think* . (I say think as one never knows for sure with pants, IMHO). You might try just pinning your depth 1/4″ lower , fold down the excess s.a. & pin, and try on VERY carefully — before trimming anything & just see if that helps!

Best of luck — I’ve spent YEARS working on mine — grrrrr. ha

Nedra

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