I know that many sewists get caught in the same fitting sinkhole. That is we know our garments can fit better and we therefore continue to tweak the fit looking for the elusive “perfect!”. Today, I have called the yellow twill pair of TJ906’s good. ..AND enough.
Overall the pant front looks good. The crotch appears to be too short. I’m still getting smile lines.
I’ve scooped it 3/4″. Now I’ve asked the SG members if it is possible to scoop too much. I mean, if I continue to scoop, which I think it still needs, am I going to start causing other issues? I think that I need to add some length to the front crotch pattern. I’m also noticing that my pockets are gaping slightly
and while the worst of the diagonal lines are unnoticeable, there are still faint reminders. I think that the 3/8″ tummy wedge may need to be increased to about 3/4″.
The side is also looking good. The side seam is nearly vertical. It leans a bit to the front. The tummy wedge should clear that up.
The back has now developed vertical wrinkles at the waistband indicating excess ease.
I’m not really surprised. This one of those everything affects everything else situations. My waist is only visible from the back. I think the front has been stealing ease from the back for a long time without my being aware that was the true issue. Now that I’ve put the ease where it is needed (in front over the tummy), there should be, and is, too much ease across the back. It is this area that made me decide fitting the Yellow Twill is done. Initially I serged the yoke to the upper leg. Then serged the legs together and the crotch. Finally the back (at the yokes) and front to the waistband. In order to control the excess ease between yoke and waistband, I needed to remove the yoke. I basted the yoke back into place and started adjusting, trying to achieve a smooth back between waistband hip. I’m nearly there.
But the waistband and yoke have both been removed twice more. The yoke pieces and seam allowances were shredding. Two things, I was nearly there with a smooth fitting back; and the way I dress myself (blouse untucked with 3rd layer vest/jacket), the back I was working so hard on is not generally visible. So why work so hard? My personal experience is that fitting issues in the crotch, thigh and leg often disappear without any effort on my part when the waist and upper hip fit correctly. So I want to work on these areas, but the yellow twill is not going to stand for any more handling. Good and enough. I’ll get a few wearings.
I did have an opportunity to work on the leg circumference. While I will transfer the changes I made to the yoke, waistband and crotch to the pattern, I’ll just make note of my leg-width experiments and let it go at that. For most people, to alter the leg width at the hem, an even amount needs to be removed at all the seams. Removing just one side or trimming one pattern piece creates a lopsided piece and more drag lines/fitting issues. For me, I have to be aware of both my crotch shape and my knock knees. The correction for knock knees is to trim from the side seams and add to the inseam. TJ906 has 3 seams: side seam, inseam and center of back leg seam. I found that I could remove 1/2″ ease from both the side seam and the center back leg seam below the knee without causing the X wrinkles. Unfortunately more than that or tinkering with the inseam caused drag lines at the knees (those famous X wrinkles).
I need to make another pair of TJ906’s with the 3 alterations (tummy wedge 3/4″, increased front and back crotch length 1/2″ and shortened yoke length.) If these alterations work correctly (or close to correctly), then it would be possible to tweak the hem circumference. So while these aren’t my best fitting pair ever:
… they do look better than any RTW that I can buy and are very comfortable.