sdBev's Pants!

TJ906, The Yellow Version

Posted on: March 3, 2013

I love this pattern.  The pictures below are the first trial.  I did make changes to the pattern. I

1) chopped another 2.5″ from the leg length down at the hem.

2) I unfolded the 1/8″ folds that were taken on the front piece and the side-back piece BUT I kept the fold in place from the knee to the hem.

3) I added a 3/8 wedge to the front. I slashed from waistline down about 5″. Then I spread the slash 3/8″ apart at the waistline.  I slipped a small piece of tissue paper underneath and taped it in.

I kept looking at yesterdays pic’s and thinking, the butt does look a little tight. More than expected of a too short crotch. Thing is, I prefer a hint of rear.  In trousers I want to display the Uni-butt.  Never, ever do I want my girlie parts to be visually defined. You know that stuff is there, but you don’t need to see it, OK?   I do think jeans are to be worn a little tighter. But I’m not making either the blue gab or these yellow twill pants to be exactly jean style. They are to be casually styled and a suggestion of a butt is OK with me. But only a suggestion.

I reviewed the front and thought, “It is not just that the crotch is a bit short. It’s more like my tummy doesn’t have enough room.” I have noticed diagonal lines running from front to side on all my pants.  I usually make no effort to correct said lines because I always wear my tops at least hip length. My tops cover the diagonals. I attempted correction  on the final MSS pants and again on the blue gab TJ906’s.  I pulled the side seams up.  It looked to me like the diagonals in question were forming a swag. Swags can be eliminated by nixing the unneeded length. Shortening the side seam (pulling up on it) did indeed reduce the number and depth of diagonals, but never totally eliminated the issue.  This time I’m looking at the tummy and thought I should address the obvious issue, my pot belly, before working on the diagonals.  From the depths of my memory bubbled up an alteration that I’ve not used in years and saw only in Nancy Zieman’s  Busy Woman’s Fitting Book.    In it she recommended the wedge I described above.  She said it was a quick and effective alteration for those of us with a tummy except for plaid pants. This alteration skews the plaid into a visually undesirable configuration. Her alteration coincides with a recommendation  I remember reading (years later) by Gale Greig Hansen (?spelling?). Gale  recommended putting fabric where the body needed it and taking fabric away where it doesn’t.  Using Gale’s recommendation you could indeed be adding to the waistline at the front for a tummy and at the same time removing from the waistline on the back piece because of a sway-back  or flat hip or the sudden excess waistline ease resulting from the first alteration.

I thought, why not? Such actions worked for me in the past. Why not try similar alterations now. Ergo 3/8″ wedge in the front.

Once again, I’ve made 3 changes to the pattern and the front looks this good:

I’m not saying there isn’t room for improvement. I’m saying that the grain lines hang beautifully. The front to side diagonals are absent from the torso. The crotch is too short and there is still a slight dip in the waistband at center front. I’m not sure I can eliminate the front dip.  I do have a tilted waist. The safety pins are holding the waistband facing into place.

The horizontal fold about 3″ down from the contour waistband is a fold in the fabric which I’m praying will be removed during future ironing events and laundry. The fabric is old. I have 4 yards of 66″ wide cotton twill.  This is  a late spring/summer-weight, bottom fabric.  I wouldn’t use it for blouse. If I wanted a matching vest/jacket, I would need to apply a light weight fusible interfacing throughout — as in completely cover the inside with interfacing.  Up close the zipper facings are visible shadows.

I like pockets.  I didn’t make pockets with the blue gab version because pockets have adversely affected my past fitting efforts.  Several times I’ve had the experience of creating a pocket with bag and thinking the pant fit, but there was something wrong with the pocket. I thought the pocket was “wrong” because the bag would try to creep out and/or gape away from my body.  While I was asking “what’s wrong with this pocket”, I was missing the real issue:  the tummy needed more ease. So I wanted pockets but I didn’t want a pocket which could confuse my fitting efforts.  I selected a pocket which consists of a binding along the cut edge of the pant and the pocket facing is stitched to the pant torso. Yes the stitching is visible. I think that’s fine for sportswear, even a bit decorative. The real plus this time is that the pocket is unified with the rest of the pant torso. My tummy can’t “borrow” ease from the pocket.  I made one error with the pocket. I forgot how wide the binding needed to be and cut my binding 1.75″; serge finished one edge and then serged the other edge to the cut pocket opening. When I wrapped the binding up and over the serged edge  to the back, I had way too much binding on the inside of the pocket. I could have trimmed the binding down and serged it to the correct width. I decided to go with the flow. I edge stitched the binding; then stitched on the torso just below the binding and then two more rows of stitching placed the width of the pressor foot away from the previous row.  I used white thread for all my top/edge stitching. I was thinking to add a bit of zing but on this yellow, the white blends really well.

On all the other muslins/pants made in the last few weeks; on all the side views; the side seam appears to veer slightly to the front between hip and waist level. Not with this version.

I”m so proud of this. The 3/8″ wedge (3/4″ total ease) added between center front and  zipper completely straightened the side seam. This is just amazing to me. Yes the side still has issues. I also see the pocket gaping a little so maybe I need to 1/4″ to the wedge?  But the first trial looks this good! Wahoo!

I may need to compensate on the back:

While sewing the yoke needed only slight easing to fit the leg. The waistband required careful easing to fit the yoke. I don’t want to increase the length of the waistband. It does feel slightly large to me now. There are days when my bowel is sluggish and I need, really need the extra waistline ease. So I don’t want to make the waistband shorter. But I also don’t want to make it longer. Any longer and the waistband would easily drop to my hips.

I think my biggest issue is the back hip between yoke and crotch. The crotch is definitely too short (still). While the yoke fits, the upper leg seems to have too much ease.The pant is hanging nicely between hem and thigh crease. Not perfect, but nicely. Thing is, with 100% cotton a certain amount of wrinkling is unavoidable.  100% cotton can be starched as stiff as a board. It will break at the body’s  joints and wrinkle everywhere. Somethings are what they are. Cotton fabrics fall into that category.

Most interesting to me is that the leg is exactly the same as the blue gab (minus the 2.5″ in length which was previously folded up in the 4″ hem). The hem circumferences of both are exactly the same 22″.  Yet the leg of the yellow twill looks slimmer than the blue gab.

Of slight interest is that this non-stretch fabric with an obviously too short crotch, feels perfectly comfortable.  I could wear these without further ado. Being the dressmaker I am, I’ve just got to tweak the fit—just a bit.

Well OK time to consider fitting changes.

First up, the crotch needs to be scooped. Or does it? Can I reduce the seam allowance at the waistband/yoke and accomplish that task.

2ndly, I need to take out the excess ease on the upper leg. That means ripping out the seam between leg and yoke (yuk) and stitching either the crotch seam deeper or making the center back-leg seam deeper.

I’d like to make the legs slimmer, but not until I have the crotch fitting. I’m wary of doing anything that will create the dreaded X wrinkles.  Got to do this one seam at a time.

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3 Responses to "TJ906, The Yellow Version"

This version is looking really good. Did you add a vertical or a horizontal wedge to the front? I’m having trouble picturing your alteration.

Its a vertical wedge just to side of the zipper placket. Maybe I can add pictures.

If it’s not too much hassle, pictures would be wonderful.

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