Universal sewing wisdom has it, that you fit starting at the “hang points” and “read the wrinkles”. For blouses/dresses that is usually the shoulder. For skirts and pants it is the waist. So my waist feels comfortable. I feel like there is perfect ease at the waistline i.e. not tight enough to cause pain; nor loose enough that the waistline drops below its intended resting place. (For this pattern, the intended resting place is the natural waistline.)
But as I look at the waistline, I see a distinctive dip at the back:
If we go with that wisdom, the first thing I should do is add enough length to the back crotch right under the waistband. But I’ve learned that reading the folds, drag lines, wrinkles is a bit like reading cuneiform or an Egyptian Cartouche. I’ve learned that I must look not only where the issue is most prominent but also all around. When I look below the waistline, I find the same dipping, even more pronounced, at the hip balance line. The solution to both could still be adding back-crotch length immediately beneath the waistline. Then I look to the side of the back, at the sides and the front.
I’ve learned to respect the wrinkles to which the red arrows are pointing. In other fitting sessions I’ve learned these diagonal lines which start on the front, cross the side and end on the back; are indicative that the side seam is the wrong length. In other patterns, the solution has been reducing the side seam length between waist and hip
How contradictory. I mean, the back says add the to the back-crotch length, while the side is saying take away from the the side-seam length. How do I accommodate both? Well I’m not done with my analysis. Remember the Egyptian Cartouche? To my understanding, you read a cartouche noting the figures both before and after the main glyph (even glyphs a few before and a few after). Same with cuneiform. The marks before and after are just as important as the mark itself. So I keep looking and find underneath the seat is a mass of conflicting drag lines:
Which practically disappear between knee and hem:
Here’s why I don’t just add length the back crotch and then work on the next issues (1) side diagonal wrinkles (2) massive under butt wrinkles (3) lower leg wrinkles: PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. Yep, I’ve spent years learning about my body. I’m no longer willing to discard everything I learned when a fitting guru appears on the scene. From personal experience I know that I am
Plump -almost plus sized
Short I’m 5’3″, most patterns are drafted for the 5’6″ female.
but I’m thick waisted in front (my waist barely shows and I have a definite tummy)
while my back waist is nicely elegant (and a bit s@xy if I may be permitted to brag)
My waist is tilted i.e. when I stand up straight, my waist is lower in front and higher in the back.
I have a Knock Knee related problem. IOW my knees are not turned inward and my thighs do not meet along the inner line as would a clinically defined Knock Knee; but there is a pad of fat on my inner knee that causes the same effect as Knock Knees. Frustratingly, the space between my thighs totally negates the need for Knock Knee adjustment.
I haven’t completely defined this issue. My rear is not flat, which tends to happen to the elderly. My rear is nicely rounded and I can prove it:
Nor does it seem low (hanging below the hip-balance line).
I can’t make an unqualified characterization of the positioning of my rear from this photo. The balance lines of this pair of pants are still unbalanced and I seem to have a 3/4 view rather than straight on side view. But it does appear my rear is above the balance line and higher than expected. It is an issue I still need to positively define.
Point today is, no matter the pattern, I must somehow account for my physical features. After all, DH loves them, why shouldn’t I?
I just realized this post is hideously long. I’m wordy, but this is bad even for me. I’ll continue telling my adventure tomorrow.