sdBev's Pants!

MSS Continuing with Fit 2

Posted on: February 24, 2013

  • In: 11202-MSS
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I spent hours studying the photos posted yesterday; adding lines, comparing photos to photos of  previous successful pants and the Burda pattern I was just fitting. Oh, and to each other within the set of pictures for this muslin. I decided to make more photos.

Let me explain.

First off, this fabric lacks the necessary body to make a good looking slim trouser.  Maybe one of those wide, very wide, like 30″ wide at the hem trousers would be good with this fabric. It is opaque enough for pants. But very soft and drapes rather than having any stiffness or, ummmmmmmmmmmmmm body.

I’m also having an issue with static cling.  I have the static cling blues every winter.  I routinely stock cans of Static Guard in my closet, the laundry room and at the ironing board.  I generously sprayed the muslin first with Static Guard and then with spray starch before pressing again.

Next I kept looking at how the lower leg buckled at the ankle and decided just for the purposes of this fitting, I would raise the hem to eliminate leg length as the cause of  wrinkles.  Did I cut the leg off?  No, I folded up the about 1-1.5″ at the hem and pressed in place.

Finally, I have reason to believe that the mess of under-butt wrinkles has to do with the positioning of the widest point of my rear in relation to the pattern drafted rear. (For those of you that care, my reason is PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.)   I starched and pressed the pants yet again and then took photos of the front and back with the pants hanging in normal position.  Next, I photoed the pants pulled up and held up at the center back. Here’s the result:

This is the same muslin. The difference is that in the photos on the right is the muslin has received 2 more applications of spray starch and the back crotch has been pulled up to my natural waistline.

So what do these photos tell me?

Well first off the designer  was right about  not needing to add length to the back crotch!  The length of the back crotch is not the issue here. Something is preventing the back crotch from sliding up into the correct position. (Probably my rear, but let’s continue.)

2ndly, Did you notice that the diagonal side drag lines disappeared?  Yes there are diagonal lines, but now they start about hip level and lean forward into the waist and are more vertically orientated.  Previously the diagonals started below center front, traversed almost horizontally across the side and terminated in the center back.  Those are gone. (Perhaps revealing a new issue but that’s what happens when start fitting garments.)

3rd, I”m n0w clearly seeing the lines radiating from my knee, from my knock-knee behaving knees. These diagonal lines are more prominent between knee and hip but are present between knee to ankle (even though I have shortened the lower leg by at least another 1″ (At pattern alteration time, I shortened the lower leg 2″. Total 3″ shorter than the given pattern.))

The question is, what to do first?  Common fitting wisdom is to fit from top to bottom. But I know from PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, that adding crotch length isn’t going to fix the under butt wrinkles; and scooping the crotch isn’t going to eliminate the knock knee wrinkles.

I opt to work on the knock knee wrinkles first, reverse order to common wisdom. I rip the crotch apart about 3″ on either side of the inseams.  The I let the inseams out the maximum which is 3/8″.  I press, basted the crotch seam together and press again.  Logically, I added 3/4″ ease (3/8 X 2) to the knee ease and the same to the crotch length. I’m sure the knees now have another 3/4″ ease, but to continue the crotch line in a smooth curve the crotch length gained only 1/2″ .  I then spray starched and pressed from the inside; spray starched and pressed from the outside and………………………………. took more pictures.  In the back of my mind I’m thinking I need to make another alteration so that the crotch can slip into the correct position. But I know, once again from personal experience, that every alteration I make will have an effect upon something else.  Before I make any uninformed, alteration decisions, I want to see the effect of the current alteration.

Please bear with me. I know I’m keeping you in suspense, but I need to think this through before making future alterations.

The side:

Part of the issues in this picture is that I over rotated the picture.  I”m not able to place my tripod-mounted camera exactly horizontally orientated to my posture. I appear to be leaning backwards as does the side seam and balance lines.  I urge you to pay more attention to the drag lines and wrinkles.  I know I’ve got 3 applications of spray starch but the lessening of plain old wrinkles is astonishing to me.  I am noticing those diagonal lines that used to run nearly horizontally from mid-front across the side and to mid-back are now lower on the leg. ??? Possibly the side seam may be too long. I’ll keep that in mind but not plan an alteration at this time.

The back is a joy to see

Not perfect,  but much much improved. The knee wrinkles are significantly reduced as are the under butt-wrinkles.  I’ve not re-drawn the balance lines but they have nearly straightened.  It’s also a pleasure to compare this version with the original.

Even with the error I made rotating the side-picture, the side is much improved.

..and the back is amazing!

Right now, right this moment, if I were to go down stairs and start sewing, I would add another 1/4″ to the inseam.  But that’s enough sewing for tonight. I need a break and a time to contemplate.

 

Of course the adventure continues. I don’t have  a wearable pant yet!

 

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