2012-12-148

148 Ver F

I’ve labeled my versions of Burda 12/2012 Style 148 with alpha characters. I started with the very first muslin made at the end of December.  By that reasoning I’m now on Version F.

On Version E ,I first started applying Lena (TheSewingSpace) method of measuring and checking a trouser pattern. I drafted my own waistband with Zero ease and then subtracted 1/4″ at the first fitting.  Then I discovered Lena’s suggestions for my figure problems.  Version F starts with the measuring and checking done, a waistband fitted to my own comfort and now adds the Knock Knee Adjustment of 3/4″ and the Balanced waists (+1″ to  -3/4″ back/front crotch lengths respectively). I wanted to see if/what a difference the new alterations made so I immediately constructed a new muslin.

I’m using a a very old stash fabric of cotton twill.  I know this is very old because I have 5 yards of a 68″ material. Initially when Walmart had their Dollar Fabrics I bought 5 yards.  In less than a year I realized I had “all these 1 yard pieces” sitting around.  I decided that 4 yard suit-making-cuts would be a better choice for me.  That this is 5 yards  tells me that I’ve had it between 15 and 20 years.   That it still here, tells me it has never been suitable for use. Why? I think it’s the color.  It is a tan with a greenish cast. Most greens make me look slightly ill and I avoid placing them near my face. With 5 yards I must have been planning a suit consisting of jacket with pants.  I”m no longer sewing jackets so I have 5 yards for pants. Pants in a greenish tan color.  I’ve decided to use the fabric as a muslin but it still has a sever short-coming.  No Stretch.  Burda says to use a fabric with horizontal stretch. On my first fitting I discovered why.  While I can stand up and walk around, sitting is uncomfortable. The pants definitely bind at the knees and back of the calve. At first I thought to discard the muslin as well. Then I decided it might be possible to pursue basic fitting with this shell.

So camera in hand I went up stairs to compare this muslin Ver F with the previous muslin Ver E:

This is the new Version:

For the record, I wouldn’t wear these even in the house.  I’m particularly anxious to see is how the two new alterations affect the pants fitting. So lets start with the front.

Version E (all the colored lines) contains a multiple of drag lines from the ankle, around the knee, the upper leg and side.  It’s also displays the  camel toe feature beneath the zipper.  The hem of version F has been turned up and basted at 2″ instead of the 1.25″ used on Ver E. That could account for the smoother lower leg. But look at the knees. The reduction in wrinkles is amazing. The camel toe is gone, but there are still multiple side drag lines and I don’t know why the fabric is following the contour of my abdomen.

The drag lines on the side are significant on side views. However there are many fewer wrinkles on the new version F (right). I’m surprised that the pant looks smaller. As I recall, I removed the tape from the previous crotch wedges and and carefully placed the sections back together in their original formation before proceeding with the knee and balance alterations. The first fabric is a soft corduroy with a little stretch. I serged the edges of Ver E together at the serger. I planned not to keep this VerF and basted the seams at the sewing machine. It is possible (even likely) that the seam allowances are wider and therefore the pant would be tighter.  Of significance to me is that on first glance I would assume the pant on the right was too tight across the abdomen. Whereas with the pant on the left, I assumed there was plenty of ease and start trying to find another answer.  So even though Ver F looks tight I will be making two adjustments, that letting out the side seam and raising it.

I want to look closer at the side seam of Ver F

The side seam is still leaning, this time in two directions.  AT the moment I’m going to assume that this fabric lacks the needed ease and is causing the bend at the knee. But I’m going to assume that the line leaning from hip to waist is an issued retained from VerE.  At the same time I lift the side seam I want to move it towards the back.  I know there is excess waistline ease in the back.  I plan to add a second, narrow dart in the back.

There is no doubt that Ver F back is better looking than Ver E still I don’t want to wear this pant especially while standing in the bank line. It shows the diagonal drag lines on the side as well as the back bubble which had nearly disappeared at the end of fitting 4 on Ver E.

Over all I think the two alterations made a significant improvement in the first fitting.  I’m thinking that I need to carefully note the fitting alterations.  I had to take my own measurements. I know that means there were most likely errors. (You try measuring the distance between your ankles while standing upright.)  I’m really thinking I need to add the changes to the original calculations and use the total when fitting the next pattern.

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