2012-12-148

New Muslin for 148’s

When I retired, I thought I’d be able to sew all day long any day I wanted.  What really happens is that I sew for 3-4 hours,about that many days a week. Writing my own blog(s) requires a surprising amount of time and then I follow a large number of blogs.  So I measured and adjusted the pattern on day 1. On day 2 I did my first muslin.

I began fitting at the waist.  Actually the waistband felt pretty good. It was drafted with Zero ease.  I like a waistband that hugs me and doesn’t slide either down or upwards. But I did think it needed to be just a smidge tighter.  I removed 1/8″ from each end, total 1/4″ length from the waistband. Ah just right.  Then I began working on the front/side wrinkles

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These wrinkles occur with just about every pair of pants I make. Usually not so bad. In fact sometimes they are barely visible. I never know how to get rid of them. I’m always perplexed because they extend mid-front across mid-thigh

The side looks amazingly different and only 1/4″ has been removed from the top, at the side seam.

I always thought that I needed just a bit more ease across the tummy. This particular time though it was obvious at the start the pant has too much ease everywhere. So I begin smoothing the wrinkle in various directions and found that I could smooth straight up and into the waistband! The great surprise was that by smoothing away this front-to-side wrinkle caused the back bubble (which occurs frequently when I’m making pants)  to disappear

Here’s something interesting. On the right the pants are obviously too tight, yet the wrinkles above are nearly all gone. Unfortunately the wrinkles underneath are worse

The front/side wrinkle probably needs to be smoothed a bit more maybe all the way to the center back, but then my back and front crotch are obviously too short. Do I dare lift even more, even further?  So far I’ve been lifting only the side from about front dart to back dart.

To tell the truth, it actually took 4 fittings and photo sessions to get from the pics on the left to the pics on the right. In addition to smoothing that front wrinkle, I increased and decreased the side seam allowance; and while the front and side were improving the back wrinkles over the thigh were getting worse.

I had continue to read the blog at TheSewingSpace and found that Lena described in her blog posts her methods of altering for my figure problems: the tilted waist and knock knees.

Lena addresses my tilted waist through a process she calls Skirt Balance . She provides a great method for calculating the amount to adjust the balance and then shows the pattern alteration.  I followed her instruction.  While moving the top parts of my pants patterns into their new positions, I suddenly realized that her method would correct the front/side wrinkle, shorten the front crotch, and lengthen the back crotch in one adjustment. I prefer a single alteration to many. My method is to slash and overlap a front wedge; then slash and spread a back wedge.  Usually I tackled the back bubble, which shortens the back crotch then I need to scoop the crotch some more. This time I lifted the waist 3 times to smooth out the wrinkles.  Which took care of the side wrinkles and back bubble, but if you look closely on the side seam, you will see that my side seam is leaning forward.  I still need to do something to straight the side seam.

Granted, the entire seam appears to be leaning forward, but especially it veers forward sharply around the front/side wrinkle level.

Lena has a method of measuring and calculating the knock knee adjustment that I’ve never seen before.  I came up with a distance of 3/4″. This kind of makes sense. By tracing the back inseam of the next size larger (my usual method with Burda patterns) I was extending the back crotch and adding 3/8″ ease for the knee. Unfortunately that also added 3/8″ to the inner thigh and adds to all those back-of-the-thigh AKA under-the-butt wrinkles. I didn’t really follow her instructions for the alteration. I mean I couldn’t. Instead of the step-by-step process she used for the Skirt Balance, she provides a laundry list and a schematic. I think I maybe confused by all the numbers and labels  on the schematic and then a formulation at the end. Next time when I’m fresh, I’ll go through her Knock Knee adjustment again. This time I did the slash and slide method. I moved the bottom half of the leg towards the inseam 3/4″ and then trued the seam lines.

And now I’m ready for muslin #2.

I have lots of praise the The SewingSpace and Lena.  There is much free information and, available for purchase, the well written ebooks .

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