While the first pair were slightly disappointing, this second pair are bordering on excellent! First let me talk about the changes to the changes. The first pair was cut using a size 46 tracing with a size 48 back inseam.During cutting, I add 1/2″ to the seam allowances. Even with the tremendous stretch of the fabric, the waist of the first pair was tight. I had to release the darts and cut a new waistband. The pair was comfy, but developed the despised X-wrinkles in the back leg. I have at least 5 Burda pants patterns that fit perfectly using the 46/48 tracing. I wasn’t sure if the fabric created the problems or the larger seam allowances or if maybe this style just doesn’t work with my body.
I also noted that the leg length of the first pair might seem a little long because the narrower leg did not allow the pant to slide down all the way. The first change then was to add the hem vents. I also hemmed this pair at 1.25″ instead of 1″.
I decided that I needed extra ease only between my tummy and my waist. On the pattern I slashed along the grain line from waist to hip level and spread 3/4″ at the waist. I cut this second pair without any extra for the seam allowances.
My fabric for the 2nd pair is a baby corduroy purchased 2 years ago. I think it said 27 wale which is so fine you think velvet, but so short and cottony you know it isn’t. It boast 30% stretch and a good yank can make it stretch even further. This is important because at sewing I decided to change from zipper front opening to just pull on pants. I did not stitch any of the darts. The pant is entirely completed at the serger and coverstitch with one exception. I like to be able to adjust the elastic and never serge it to the garment. I create a casing and insert the elastic into the casing. I find the easiest method for me is to create a buttonhole in the back of the waistband for elastic insertion. So only the buttonhole and the elastic join were created at the sewing machine.
The waistband was folded to the back, secured with Steam A Seam and then cover stitched on the front. Which I pull these pants on the waistband will only stretch so much. I’m not sure if that’s the Steam A Seam or the cover stitching. I’ll find that out after the first laundering. I’m making note to myself that I might want to do that stitching at the sewing machine as well.
No pockets, no zipper and cover stitch finishing makes for very little sewing time. Or would have. I made the mistake of sewing the back inseams together and the front inseams together. Much that I hated to, I spent some time ripping out these seams so they could be correctly stitched to each other. I had scooped out the back crotch pattern about as much as the final crotch on the first pair. When stitching the crotch it had an awkward convex bump. I needed to smooth the crotch during joining front and back. I’m not sure how to copy this back to the pattern but am making note of it now so that I will at least consider this issue the next time I make the pants.
Usually, I critique the pant from each view (front, side, back) but I think we are seeing the same issues in each view.
1) The pants are hugging my knees. The diagonal lines radiating from the knee suggest that the pant leg could be made slimmer. I’m not sure I want it any slimmer. I don’t wear jeggings. I wear tights but under a skirt or pants not under a tunic or other top. I’m of an age and mind where I want my clothes to say I’m still alive. Still Active. Still aware of the world and still participating NOT” I’ll spread my legs for you”.
2) The hem of this pair has a 13″ circumference. Even with the vent they cannot slide down to the level I prefer which is 1/2″ above the floor. They’re trying but clearly they are stacked between shoe and knee. I’m thinking just because they are a slim fitting leg, they need to be shortened another 3/4-1″.
3) They are too long from crotch to waist. I’m listing this next even though I see those other diagonal wrinkles, because this is clearly an issue not only in the pic’s but as I’m wearing. The front crotch needs to be shortened another 1″. The back only about 1/2″. It’s possible to remove this waistband, trim the top edge and replace the waistband, but not until the first laundry when the Steam A Seam has loosened it’s death grip. I did have to trim the waist elastic twice. I started with 35″. Overlapped it 2″. Then pulled it back out and trimmed another 2″. I’m guessing that this elastic, a 3/4″ non-rolling purchase from Walmart, stretches more than I’m accustomed and needs to be 30″ long–for me. Your Mileage WILL Vary.
4) Part of those diagonal wrinkles are from the excess torso length, but I’m looking at some and the way the side seam wants to swing forward just at the waist and I think maybe the front needs a bit more ease? Or could that be corrected by rearranging the fabric along the elastic?
On thing I have noticed is that most slim pants have more wrinkles. More wrinkles than jeggings and more wrinkles than trousers. I’m wondering if that’s just inherent to the slim pant or if we really can tweak out all those drag lines.
I’m really pleased with this pair. The first pair is comfy and will get wear at least this year. But this pair are decent enough to be worn outside the house and still comfy. After the first pair I was considering discarding this pattern. But now my faith in Burda has been renewed and I will be making more.