Burda 2012-12-148

Oh I didn’t mean to drop the ball on this.  I’ve finished the first pair.  Yes, first because despite the problems, which I will describe, I like these. I added 1/2″ to the side seams for the first pair.  When I serged the sides together I didn’t trim any fabric.  Although I wondered if the darts were really necessary, I stitched them in but didn’t hem the legs or add a buttonhole/button to the waistband.  I took pictures of the first fitting despite the unsatisfactory result. With 2 inches added to the torso, the waistband was too tight.  I had to leave the waistband unsecure which I believed contributed to


all the wrinkles in the back. Even the front


had issues and from the side


the drag lines from the waist are really visible.  However it did tell me that I had the length right, the crotch needed scooping a little (so what’s new?)  and I liked the feel of the pants themselves.  Lycra makes a difference. Oh yes it does.

So I took the time to rip the waistband and cut a new one.  I let out the darts in front.  When I replaced the waistband, I inserted elastic.  My waist circumference changes a lot, from day to day, sometimes hour to hour.  I’ve learned to live with it and having not planned nor cut belt loops, the elastic alternative is welcome. When I replaced the waistband, I also added a hook and eye closure and hemmed the pants.  In retrospect, I was a bit optimistic.  Front final fitting


still shows some diagonals pointing to my rotund belly and wrinkles between knee and ankle.  I think the legs may be a bit long.  They are also hanging up on my socks. Corduroy is a little velcro-like and it’s showing here.  But then my knock-kneedness is being revealed by the closer fitting leg.  The hems finished at 14″ (that includes the extra added to side seams and back inseam).  The side


confirms what we were seeing on front complete with diagonals pointing to tummy and knee buckling.  Again, perhaps the leg is too long and perhaps the tighter leg is revealing my knees and perhaps the corduroy tackiness is preventing this from being truly lovely. Then the back


makes me grit my teeth.  Yes I scooped. I scooped twice.  At least my girly parts aren’t highlighted front, side or back.  The pants now feel comfortable at the waist.  They do highlight the divot on my side.  That’s me. My side kind of swoops in right there above the joint.  I think my tush itself looks good, but all those diagonal X wrinkles emanating from the knee,,, well GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. I spent so much time and effort. I finally thought I’d found the perfect answer (Burda size 46 with size 48 back inseam) and BLAMMMMO  they’re back.

So what to do.  Well sneak peak with top and vest


they’re not so bad.  It even helps to stand naturally instead of all posed so that “things’ can hang. I’m leaving this pair like they are. For starters even with all the wrinkles I look better in these than 90% of the other people in the grocery line.  I need to do something about the length.  I don’t really want  shorter pants, so perhaps a hem vent (the pattern originally called for hem zippers).  I think the back crotch needs to be scooped, yet again.  The trouble with scooping is that it must be done in small amounts (1/4″ at a time) and the fabric itself can make a difference as to how much needs to be scooped. Scary part is you have to scoop and trim. This is not one that can be tested. You have to wade in on blind faith and scoop another 1/4″ until the crotch sits the way you want it.  Despite the inherent stretch of this fabric (about 40%), I needed a larger waist. 2″ was enough for the waist but I still need a bit more for the tummy and if I don’t want my hip divot to show, I need a bit more in that area BUT it all needs to taper away before the knee.  With the knock knee issue either you need lots of ease so the fabric skims past the knee or you need very little ease so the fabric hugs the knee tightly and refuses to migrate either up or down.  I think an easier solution will be adding a dart like wedge starting at the knee and widening at the waist to about 3/4”.   It’s one of those things I’ll just have to plink with until I get it right.

But this is one of the pant styles I really want in my wardrobe.  A slimmer leg looks much better with the billowing