2011-02-136

Burda Style Feb 2011 #136 with Waistband!

ETA 11/27/2012:  I’ve had a chance to wear these now and can say I’m really pleased.  They may be a tiny bit too long in the crotch and slightly tight in the waist.  The waist is easy to fix–move the button over.  The crotch depth, I won’t mess with on this pair.  I will trim about 3/16″ from the top of the pattern before making this waistband version a second time.

Sorry no pics.  My fabric is a stretchy, narrow-wale corduroy in espresso — a brown so dark you would swear it was black.  Being that dark the photos all look like blobs.

This is the pattern which has been tweaked to the point of looking and sewing like the famous Loes Hines European pants. I love the fit and styling but sometimes have issues with bulk at the pocket tops and yardage requirements.  For these reasons I decided to adapt the pattern for use with a straight waistband.  I traced the pattern pieces and removed 3″ from the top of the front, back and pocket pieces.   I know that if I’m really tight on fabric I can remove another 2″ from the hem and either face the pant legs or use a grosgrain ribbon.  I still have not adapted the pattern for a crotch gusset, the ultimate fabric conservator (when it comes to pants).  Each piece added, of course adds sewing time– time to cut, time to stitch and time to press.  But with certain fabrics I find the trade desirable.

I serged all the seams together permanently except the waistband.  It’s a bit of over confidence, I know, but I’ve made the pattern so many times that I AM confident in the fit.  I stitched the waistband to the pant using a 3.5 mm stitch length.  I find that length holds but is still easy to rip should I find that to be necessary.  I used a button and buttonhole closure.  I debated at using a hook and eye because they are easily moveable.  I decided the real issue was going to be was the crotch now the right length i.e. had I removed too much or not enough from the top of the pattern to make room for the separate waistband.  Fortunately during fitting the crotch felt fine because I don’t know what I’ll do if the crotch is too short.

Reading that back it sounds confusing. Yes I did try the pants on to check the fit and they felt fine.  My trouble is that I don’t notice a lot of issues until after I’ve worn the garment for a while.  So a neckline isn’t choking when first tried but may be so after several hours of wear. In like manner, a pair of pants my look great and feel fine, but after several hours of wearing feel uncomfortable or I see my privates outlined by the fabric –never a good look.   It is that 3-8 hour wearing that has not yet occurred and will generate the final verdict of did I alter the pattern correctly or not.  It’s possible  I will be returning to this post to add subsequent changes.

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