Muley Moleskin Pants

As I mentioned on my regular sewing blog, I’m working a Muley-Brown collection.  I’m calling this color Muley-Brown in honor of the animal which is the same color i.e. the Mule Deer of the Midwest (maybe all of America).  It’s a cool brown as opposed to a warm brown like cinnamon. On a scale of 5, it a 3 tonal value.  It’s not dark but not light either. It seems to contain no red, as would  milk-chocolate. As I said the thing in life I’ve seen closest to this color are the Mule Deer which are fondly called Muleys ergo the Muley Brown Collection.

My fabric is a 100% polyester the very thought of which will make some people’s skin crawl.  I do think there are varying types of polyester.  I remember the rough scratchy polyesters of the ’60’s and I’ve had one ITY that I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to wear because when it arrived it felt like a garbage bag. Fortunately a time or two through the wash banished the slick plastic feel. My fabric however, is a moleskin and feels so wonderful I can’t believe that it is poly.  It has a suede twill appearance on the public side whilst the inside is a smooth satin. I love moleskin for winter.  It keeps me warm, looks wonderful; because it has some stretch, it is absolute comfort and I can make pants almost a size smaller.

I chose to use Burda Style 136 from Feb 2011 size 46/48 i.e. 46 everywhere except the back inseam is size 48. I’ve tweaked this pattern to perfection. It now closely resembles the fabulous European pants pattern from Loes Hinse both in appearance and construction.   My measurements put me in a Burda size 44, but I prefer a bit more ease so I use a Burda size 46.  I use a size larger for the back inseam because I need a long back crotch extension and I have knock knees.  I still have to scoop the back crotch about 3/8″. But with this sizing and these minor changes, Burda pants nearly always fit me perfectly.

I’m particularly pleased with my finishing details.  I copied the double belt-loops from an Otto pattern:

Pictures are clickable for larger view

Look at the front zipper. The hard work I’ve put into perfecting the finish of the zipper and waistband has finally paid off! It is perfectly beautiful both inside and out.

Apologize for not taking photos of me.  I’ve been spending most of my time playing with my new toy and really other than that beautiful finish there’s not much more to say and show about this pattern.  It is TNT and whips up in record time.