2012-09-145

Burda 2012_09 Inspired-by-145

I’m particularly impressed with the September 2012 issue of Burda Style.  There are at least 4 tops/blouses I want to make and this pair of plus size pants, Style 145

This pair of pants was attractively displayed on a plus sized model (OK 14 is not a plus sized woman, but that’s the size the industry uses when they want to model plus sized clothing.) I’m always on the look out for patterns that might be used when I’m short on fabric.  I’ve got pants gussets down to a science…. on me. My first thought was this pattern might really useful in that regard.

I was concerned about the horizontal yoke line.  Often pants will have a flattering, narrow-angled yoke in either front, back or both. But a straight across yoke is rarely seen outside maternity wear.   I don’t wish to give the impression of  expecting a new family member and I’m really cautious about all horizontal lines.  I’m not only a pear shape, but I’m a large, nearly-plus-sized pear. I know others will disagree with me, and maybe it is entirely in my own mind, but I want horizontals falling where I want to look wider which is either bust or shoulders not hips.  So once I identified the pieces on the pattern sheet, traced, and added seam allowance, I taped the legs to the yoke and determined where that horizontal yoke would end on my body.  I was pleased to see that it should be well above the hem of any of my tops. I think if I also make it in a matching color, the line will be nearly invisible.

The suggested fabric is Stretch Nappa Leather for the legs and stretch Jersey for the yokes.  Although there is a dividing line at the knee, I didn’t find it on the pattern sheet. Of course, this could be an oversight on my part, but I believe that from the crotch down is one front piece and one back piece.  The upper portion, yoke, should be stretch Jersey which has me asking, why the waistline darts?  I traced all 4 pieces and then, since I do have a pattern which fits compared with Burda 2011 02 136.

I don’t work a lot with leather and I’ve never used it for clothing (other than gloves or hats).  My understanding is that leather will stretch some and will conform to the body it covers the longest.  But this pattern is at least 2.5″ narrower than my 136’s although the crotch curve including depth and length matches exactly.  Apparently Nappa Leather much have a lot of stretch.  Stretch akin to my tights. I wear tights as underwear. I never adopted the jeggings craze although I do like a narrow skim-the-curves leg. I also notice that the waistline is angled. It’s as if instead of having a diagonal cross the hips and tummy, thereby visually slimming those areas, the line is across the waist. It could be a fitting solution.  But I can’t be sure that is true, until the pants are actually basted together and tried on. This is one of those design features not visible in any pic or line drawing. Still am I willing to sacrafice  2 yards of fabric for a pants pattern that obviously has 5″ less ease than I’m accustomed to having?

In a word:  NO

But I still like the idea of the upper yoke, despite the silly darts. My solution?  I traced a copy of my 136’s.  I measured the length of the yoke for the 145’s. It was 9.5 “.  I made a dot at 9.5 inches down from the top along the straight of grain.  I made another dot 8.5” down at the side.  I connected these two dots with line and split the copied 136’s along this line.  It gives my Inspired-by-145 pants a slightly angled  and  long front yoke.

I will be using my navy blue stretch twill as this is to be my 2nd pair of pants in my 2012 Autumn 6PAC. Well, I’ll be back….

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 I’ve realized that I’m often making multiple posts on a single project.  It may be terribly selfish but it is really helpful to me.  Writing my post(s) both documents my process(es) and helps me think through what I’m doing.   

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