2011-02-136

Burda 2011_02_136 The thing that drives us away from sewing

fit:
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More than fit is the fact that you can’t depend upon achieve the same fit from the same pattern. This is the same pattern as I used with the previous pair the difference being fabric.   The first pair was constructed of a woven with 1% Lycra.  I had to sew the wider seams to achieve the desired fit.  The pattern is designed for woven, not knit, or woven-with-stretch, but woven pant weight fabric.  It’s not unreasonable that the first pair (fabric-with-stretch) needed wider seams.  It is unreasonable that this pair constructed with the designated fabric is too tight. Too tight when standing and knee-constricting when sitting down.  Not sure that this pair is salvageable, so I proceeded to another fabric, a nice silk/cotton again no-stretch.  I added 1/2″ ease to both the front and back pieces.  That adds 2″ ease across the torso, 1 ” for the legs.  Much better:
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Now the 3 pictures above are from the first fitting. I’ve added belt loops to this version. I changed to using Louise Cuttings waistband elastic, one of the most wonderful products and which I don’t find on her web site.  (I may regret not buying 20 yards of this stuff when I had the opportunity.) It is different.  Her elastic is more comfortable to wear and slightly softer.  Generally the elastic does relax just a bit, moving slightly downwards on your torso and of course taking your pants with it.  I wanted to use her elastic and decided to add the belt loops to this version.  As you can see, I’m going to need a belt.  The pants are dropping slightly, which creates the knee and ankle fluff in front, the drag lines on the side and back.  All that disappears when the pant rear is pulled up.  I may need to scoop just another 1/4″.  What gravity does to a woman’s butt is terrible.

I’m much happier with my front finish:
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I may need to move the inside button over just a little bit.  I also need to dig out the instructions for Loes Hinse 5001 European pant and read her finishing instructions.  I understand now why so many of the members of Stitchers Guild just raved about the European pant.  You don’t need to do all the things I did. You don’t have to make buttons, add a zipper or belt loops.  If you don’t do those things, it sew up nearly as fast as the famous CLD One Seams. Honest!  One-seams need the inseams sewn, the crotch sewn and the attached waistband stitched down.  For these add the side seams, maybe 5 extra minutes…
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or go hog-wild with the extra touches and make a fantastic pair of pants.

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