2011-02-136

Burda Feb 2011 #136

What I wanted was the exact styling I had developed in my 428’s but not the 24″ hem circumference of that pattern. I know that a certain amount of flare and ease can be removed from the leg.  In actual practice I’ve found that more than 1/2″  from each side (2″ total) starts effecting the hang of the pant.  I want to remove at least 4″ and maybe more. Given my experience, and since I have so many patterns available, it made more sense to look for a new pattern which has been drafted with a narrower leg. I thought I’d found exactly what I wanted in the February 2011 Burda Style #136 pant. It has all the pieces for my favorite the front slant pocket; was specifically drafted for woven fabrics and finishes with hem circumferences of 16″.
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I’ve developed a love/hate relationship with Burda Style.  I totally hate their photographic efforts.  Generally I can’t see the details of the garment because it has been created in dark colors and then the model forced into a quirky pose which conceals the features of the garment.  Often the picture seems to focus on the RTW items so that when looking at the photo I think that the pattern will be the RTW item and what’s in the pattern section is entirely different.  BS rearrangement of the on-line site was so completely disconcerting for me that I never re-registered.  I thought others would discover the secrets of the new site and lead the way. I was even more disconcerted to find that most of the other users have been unable to navigate the English BS site and have taken to reading and linking to the other languages sites. Let’s not forget the actual patterns. Which now come on 4 pages and cause me headaches to trace.  I spend as much time hunting for the pieces as tracing them and nearly always miss some important mark.  For this pattern, February 2011 #136, I didn’t find the straight of grain for the back or the front pleat mark which the instructions assure me that I must make on the front and stitching on the inside.  Trying to locate my size back darts from amongst the 10 on the page which were layered over other blue markings was such a nightmare, I decided that I could add darts wherever needed on my own.  Yes there is more than one pattern on that page using the same ink color. I definitely would not recommend Burda Style for the beginner.  But I still love the actual design details of the patterns and the fit of the pants. So I persist…

This pattern has my 4 darts in the back and 2 tucks (which were easily changed to darts) in the front. It also contains a front zipper. Not a true fly but then I never make a true fly anyway.  I thought it would be a near copy of Loes Hinse popular European pants and was disappointed when reading the instructions which revealed that the waist was 1-3/8″ above the natural waistline. This is a big downside for me. I am short-waisted.  Wearing a high-waisted pant usually looks like I don’t even have a midriff area. A really high waist makes my lungs feel constricted and interferes with my breathing.  Sometime during the day of wearing a high-waist garment, I will look down and see that the high waist has folded down and outward becoming a shelf.  So although there is no mention of boning, I know I need to give serious consideration to supporting that high waist or accepting the “shelf” as a design element.  Or I could trim that waist down to my comfort level.  I chose the latter.

I chose to change the design from a high waist to ending at my waist level. The pattern includes facing pieces.  I’ve traced those and I’ll keep them for reference but the actual pant is made with same attached waistband/elastic-casing as I used with my 428’s.  I do like elastic waistlines.  I don’t like the really bulky waistline, but in this type design the elastic solves my problem of fluctuating waistline circumference and also eliminates the need to tweak the waistline/waistband for each fabric.  I used the 428 pattern pieces to compare with the 136’s and  adapted the waistline height and darts. I continued the now proven practice of tracing the pattern 2 sizes larger than the measurement chart indicated I should select and 3 sizes larger for the back inseam. IOW according to Burda’s sizing chart I’m a size 42. I traced a size 46 except I traced the back inseam from the size 48 line.

I have an interesting cotton/poly fabric I want to use for summer pants.  It’s a white and cream irregular stripe but I have enough for only 1 pair of pants.  I don’t want to waste this fabric, so thought to make a wearable muslin from another piece.  I thought of starting my fall 6 PAC by selecting a brown fabric. Didn’t do that either.  No I decided upon reducing the number of navy blue pant weight fabrics which I’ve over stocked thereby changing my Fall 6PAC color scheme from browns to Navy and Royal blues.  My navy blue fabric is a stretch twill of cotton/Lycra.  This fabric is excellent for  fall/early winter use.  It’s one of those really well-behaved fabrics, which cut, sew and press very easily. I gave an extra effort to making the front closure even, smooth, entirely professional.  I measured and chalk marked where the zipper stitching should begin. Stitched accurately, folded and pressed carefully. I’m still not there yet but this is improved.

This picture is from the first fitting. I was terribly terribly pleased. This is the 4th pattern using combined 46 & 48 sizing and it’s perfect. I took pictures, analyzed and made corrections but didn’t take new pics of the final piece. In these pics, I haven’t tightened the waistband elastic. The back therefore drops making for lots of back wrinkles and some poufy sides. The leg is also too long for wear with flats. Not a problem because during the fall and especially winter, I prefer to wear low (1.5-2″)  heeled boots.

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Despite the inaccuracy of the pic, I’m sharing my triumph now. Yes I do feel it’s a triumph and I’m really pleased.

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