Spring 428…

…again and again and again.  Last week I discovered that my wardrobe has a few holes.  I need neutral colored pants in a light weight fabrics.  I could use a few more shorts, but it was the long pants I really desired.  I retrieved the tissue for the 2011 Spring issue  Burda Plus pattern #428.  (I’m calling these my 428’s).
I had not made this pattern in the length suggested by Burda. No I shortened the pattern made it once and then started adding interesting details.  I traced the pattern with my new personal-standard of size 46 for the body changing to 48 only for the back inseam.  But because I’ve made only shorts, I wasn’t sure how the leg would fit.  So I pulled out the pattern and lightly pressed to smooth old the folds and wrinkles.  Then I looked at the hems.  Hmmm.  Then I measured the hems.  Nah.  I ‘ve got pretty clear standards for pants.  Because I’m short, I don’t like the hem circumference to finish any wider than 20″.  My favorites are in the 17-18″ range.  These would finish at 24″.  I’m not only short, I’m wide.  The 24″ hem would make me look even shorter and wider.  BUT I also would like more shorts.  The 3 I made recently with Burda Nov 2000 # 140 are OK.  I was in a hurry and cut them too long.  When I corrected the length I didn’t have enough ease for the hem.  So my hems on those 3 pairs are OK, but not really nice.  They are good enough for sitting in front of the A/C but maybe I don’t want to go out in public.  I used the zipper and darts added in the last pair of 428″s and made a few adjustments to each new pair.

So I made 1 pair from cotton

I wanted this pair a bit dressy.  I added the large scoop front pockets and also pockets in back.  I used a programmed stitch from my Ruby  to top stitch the pockets but since I did want this a big dressy, I used matching thread everywhere.

Pair #2 is a remnant from a woven stretch trouser fabric.
I used a contrasting thread for the zipper application, and back pockets.  I skipped the front pocket application.

Pair #3, also a remnant but from jean fabric.
It too has a bit of stretch. No front pockets; back pockets and contrasting thread used in several places.

I love this pattern.  It would be extremely quick to sew if I wasn’t adding the details.  But I also love it because I can get it almost all the way sewn before making my first fitting check.  The linen pants were perfect with the drafted ease.  I planned to take the sides in a bit more with the stretch fabrics but at the fitting I decided I liked them this way.  Which I do.  I like close fitting shorts because they make me look slimmer.  But I prefer these loose legs for the air circulation factor.

The original pattern does not include the zipper, darts or any pockets.  I almost wonder if this is now a sdBev pattern instead of a Burda Style pattweb.  My last addition to the pattern is a tab on the front behind the zipper.   I can add either a button or snap for a little more security at the closure.  With these 3 shorts, I concentrated on where to add the tab, what size it should be and at what time during the construction process it should be added.  When I use this (or a similar pattern) in the future I want to concentrate on making the front finish evenly and neatly at the top.
I don’t quite have that down.  I mean I can see that the front needs just a bit of finessing.  It’s not that noticeable during wear because I typically wear my tops over my pants.  But I’m interested in doing really good sewing and would like to perfect this technique.