2011_Spring_428

2011Spring Burda 428

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Every year, along about mid-August, we have 1 week of triple-diget temperatures.  Definitely reminds me of Utah but fortunately of much shorter duration.  For that week I really, really, really need shorts and tank tops.  I’m wondering how hot this year is going to be, because Mid-August temperatures arrived in Mid-June and that’s when I discovered I didn’t have enough hot weather clothes.  Before the temperatures broke, I was scrambling to do laundry while wearing  long legged pants. I realized I could probably have a new pair of shorts before the laundry was done and I started on this pattern

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Burda Spring 2011

The first pair, the wearable muslin, is not photoed.  It was made from a cotton/poly double-knit.  It was a hefty fabric, lots of body.  I traced a size 48 (though my measurements place me in the size 44, the fit of Burda pants 2 sizes larger seem more to my liking).  I did trace the back inseam one size larger (48).  I wanted a pull on pant with the waistband included.  The pattern gives directions for a separate waistband.  I matched the waistband along the waist seam lines and trimmed it even  with the center and side.  I traced the pant completely, located the knee markings and folded the leg up on a line 5″ above the knee.  I made one mistake with the first pair. I made my waist elastic too long.  They kept wanting to drop in front during wear.

The other thing I noticed was, these have a lot of ease.  Now, the pant is designed for wovens and I did make it 2 sizes too large. But still this firm double-knit sort of stuck out at the sides.  I think, had this been a soft knit, I would have been uncritical.  But knowing there was so much excess easy I trimmed 5/8″ off the side seams only for the next version; the version pictured here.

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Please excuse the excessive wrinkling. These shorts were worn for several hours before being photoed.

I  added a front zipper and 6 darts, 2 in front and 4 in the back a la Loes Hines European pants pattern. This is a wonderful addition. The pants fit smoothly and nicely at the waist. What appears to be a waistband, is the top 1-3/4″ folded down to the back and top stitched. It forms a casing through which I’ve run the elastic (now 2 inches shorter than the first version).
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Oddly the front seems to be trying to rise. I see it on the side view at both the hem and the drag line just above my hip. I often, but not always, see that particular drag line and I’m not sure what it indicates. I don’t worry about it too much because as normally attired, my tops totally cover the issue.
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The back has not been scooped yet. I need to scoop just 1/4″ for comfort if not to correct these radiating lines. I’ve been collecting pocket patterns and borrowed this one since the pattern didn’t include a pocket.

I did try to close the front neatly.  In fact I added a inside button and tab, to give a little extra support to the front zipper.
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I’m thinking that maybe 2″ less was too much less.

The fabric is a piece from one of the Fabricmart bundles. Itsa a woven with stretch so I think cotton/lycra. I wish I knew what it was because I like to have a one yard cut in various colors for nothing but shorts. I think it’s too firm a fabric to make a nice trouser. While it has stretch, it is minimal stretch, maybe 1% and is a bit stiff. The fabric would have been great in a wind-breaker. Surprisingly, it made very comfortable shorts.

 

Yes I had shorts to wear before the laundry was done.  But the brightest news is that my fitting method work yet again.  This is Burda pant pattern #5 in which I’ve trace the pant 2 sizes larger than the charts indicate and 3 sizes larger on the back inseam.  Although the pant had a little too much ease, that was easily detectable and could have been corrected at the first try on.

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