sdBev's Pants!

2011-08-137

Posted on: June 4, 2012

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Ok besides the “bad hair”, I don’t really have anything negative to say. My first glance summarizes me as a middle-aged woman dressed for spring temperatures and a casual outing. In this outfit, I’d be fine touring American Battleships, or sitting in the back yard drinking whatever. These pants are not form fitting. I’m not and am not attempting to be a hot-seductress or Hollywood Movie Star. I’m me: MidWestern, Mid-Age American-Female. I’m happy to be so.

I want to start critiquing this pattern with back. Please remember that this the very first try-on.

The waist feels too loose.  Indeed, I had to ease the pant waist to the waistband. I’m reluctant to make the waistband shorter. I’m the person whose waist seems to fluctuate daily, even hourly.  I have some internal issues which are not life threatening, but they do throw a kink into fitting clothing.

I had substituted the pattern piece with my classic JSM waistband after (inadvertently) clipping into the back pieces which resulted in needing to cut another 2 back pieces and their facings.

I wonder if I made a mistake during tracing.  I wonder, because as I looked at the pattern pieces and compared them with my straight edge, they seemed perfectly straight. I had expected a one-piece straight waist band and was surprised to find a 2 piece waistband with facings.  When I discovered my traced pieces look exactly straight, I decided to use my classic straight waistband instead.  For me, the first thing I must fit on pants is the waist.  The fit of the waist(band) affects how the pants hang and even the length of the rise. For me  to fit the crotch and then add a waistband results in disaster. It’s much better for me to start with a waist(band) that fits. My JSM waistband is so reliable that I’m reluctant to make it shorter even for these pants.  I prefer to rely upon belt loops and a belt to adjust the waist. Who knows, tomorrow I may need 2″ extra waist-ease.

This is important, because when the waist fits, I believe that the wrinkles in the back yoke and upper thigh  will disappear

I’m pleased that the crotch looks perfect. It is neither too loose nor too tight but could stand some expert steaming -me being the expert.

I think that the leg may still be too long.  I”m wearing sandles with 3/4″ thick soles. The back leg buckles just above the heel and repeats  up to the back thigh.  This buckling is not the normal pulling (drag lines) from a too short crotch or too tight hip; or the X-wrinkles of which I constantly complain.

In brief, I’m tremendously pleased with the fit of the back.

the Side view…

gives me critical information.  Because of my shape, I’m sometimes unsure if I need more ease in the back or the front.  Viewing the side seam tells me immediately which part of my body is desperately “borrowing” ease.

This pant doesn’t feel tight and the side seam is perpendicular to the floor with a minor tilt toward the back.  IOW, I have adequate ease in both the front and back. Once I tighten up the waist, the tilt will disappear.

I do start to perceive a bit  too much ease in the front.

I have second thoughts about the waistband. I cut the back yoke as directed and ended up with the lovely bias appearance. I cut the waistband on the grain specified, but I’m not so happy.  I feel like I should have tried to match the stripes. But that would have been impossible. Not only do I have 4 seams to interfere, but there are 2 deep front tucks AND the pattern calls for inseam pockets. All factors which affect my ability to match vertical stripes from hem through waistband.  I wish I had cut the waistband with the strips running horizontally.  However, since I normally dress with waistband covered, I don’t think it’s going to be a problem.

Once again, I think this pant is still a bit long.  I’m undecided as to whether I need to hem it 1/2″, or 1″, or more higher.

.

.I find the “straight on” front view rather shocking.

I’d say the front is a size or more too large.

Yet the crotch hangs without issue.  It could be that the tucks, which introduced more style-ease, are the sole factor in the too-large appearance.  Most often, pants fit me perfectly in front, but need a bit more effort in the back.

I do see that the grain appears to slightly angle inwards at the hem.  This corresponds with the slight lean I noted on the side seam.  I’m not sure but it could again be the effect of the waistband being too large–today.

 

ONE THING I WANT TO POINT OUT:  the hem is 16.5″ wide exactly what Burda promised!  This is 3″ larger than the Style Arc pattern.  I’m not really sure I want/need a 13.5″ pant cuff.  I really like these. OTOH, I’m not averse to trying another Burda Pattern with a narrower cuff/hem.

 

 

 

 

 

So what am I going to do?  Well first thing I’m doing  is throwing confetti in the air.  I’m at a loss to describe how pleased I am with these pants.  Yes they have issues–MINOR issues. I know that I need to sew yet another Burda pant pattern following the same criteria i.e. pant

  • 2 sizes larger than suggested
  • tracing back inseam 3 sizes larger
  • legs 2″ shorter

 

But for now, I’m making this pair wearable immediately through.

  • adjusting the belt loops need adjusting (not quite wide enough -my fault entirely. )
  • Hemming at 1.75″ instead of 1.25.
  •  Repllacing all the WST with permanent 2.5mm stitching
  • Oh and I’m subscribing to Burda Plus IMMEDIATELY
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