Burda August 2011 Style 137


I continue to dislike Burda’s photographic policies. This pic above wouldn’t tempt me. But this:
especially when compared to Sytle Arc’s Audrey:

has my interest.   Audrey is described “Ankle length with front tucks, narrow leg and angled pockets; approximate hem circumference: size 10 = 34cm ” (about 13.5 inches)  and suggested fabrics  Melton wool and gabardine.

I like the Audrey for several reasons. I find the front tucks very helpful.  My tummy, in addition to being larger than the standard, seems to start almost immediately after the waistband. I’m always, or so it seems, shortening both the front and back darts.   I also like a straight, narrow waistband and belt loops.  While I have nicely fitting pants patterns, I’m desiring a narrow leg design.  At 13.5″,  Audrey fills my wish. But I’m not making the Audrey.

Both Burda 137 and Audrey patterns suggest gabardine for fabric. Both have similar design lines.  I don’t believe the Audrey has a back yoke and 137 has a wider cuff (16.5″).  But  I bought Audrey a size too small. Style Arc patterns come in only one size. Using the Audrey  would necessitating grading up. A process which I did not do successfully with my other Style Arc pattern.  In the end, I made so many changes to the pattern, I couldn’t be sure it  still was a Style Arc pattern.  I’m reluctant to make another 5 pairs of pants to produce one that I won’t wear.  Burda137 is available in multiple sizes- no grading. While  Burda pants sizing is not always reliable for me, I’ve had enough success to tackle another.  I’ve also made a break through that has me anxious to follow up by testing on a different pattern. My discovery is that I need to choose Burda pants by 2 sizes larger than recommended and 3 sizes larger for the back inseam.  That’s probably confusing.  Think of it this way: if I were a size 0, I would trace  a size 2 pattern except I would trace the back inseam of the size 3 (truing lines as needed).

And so begins my next pants fitting experiment.