Burda 2011-08-137

I’ve chosen an all cotton fabric—not the gabardine as recommended.  Gabardine is defined as a tightly woven wool fabric. It seems to me that Gabardine has a diagonal effect in the weave.  Gabardine is good at resisting wrinkles which is one of the reasons it’s a top choice in pants.  My choice of the cotton fabric starts with the hope this pattern might fit. If so, I want something comfortable to wear this summer.  Summer is pleasant in my-neck-of-the-woods.  We have about 1 week of oppressive high temperatures than weeks of comfortably warm weather.  But I still need a lighter-weight, er cooler fabric for summer; and I need protection from the sun and the bugs.  Cotton will give me everything I need except the exact fabric match.  The missing characteristic I’m concerned about is wool’s (gabardine) inherent elasticity that I won’t experience with the 100% cotton.

I traced my pattern as planned i.e. two sizes larger than recommended for my measurements but 3 sizes larger at the back inseam while shortening the legs 2″ . I know it’s an questionable combination.  Like everyone else, I can use Burda’s suggested size for tops based upon my measurements.  I then make the same adjustments to Burda top patterns that I do to the Big 4.  I’m still formulating a theory or reason for why I need a different approach (size wise) for pants. For starters,  I think that I must like more ease in pants than most women. I’m also using non-stretch fabrics (which shouldn’t matter because I’m also using patterns for non-stretch fabrics) because most of the pants fabrics in my stash are non-stretch.

FWIW,   RTW pants NEVER fit me. I buy RTW pants only when I desperately need something immediately. My problem with RTW is not styling.  I do find things I think are appropriate and cute. I often copy RTW details. My issue with RTW pants  is that they  always burrow into my bu tt–what I like to call the Bu tt vortex.  Without question, I need more depth to my crotch than RTW accomodates and possibly more depth than most women need.  I’m hoping I’ve found the magic combination by which nearly all Burda pants will fit me.  If this combination works, I’ll subscribe to Burda and never buy a pant pattern anywhere else.

I’ve sewn with permanent stitching the zipper and the back yoke to back pant leg.  Everything else is sewn with water-soluble thread in the bobbin.  I find the WST will last through steam-less pressing and multiple try-on. When it’s time to rip out, a good sharp yank on the top thread and I’m done. I folded the hem up at the planned depth (1.25″) and then basted into place with WST. I tell you all this to prepare you for my very first fitting with Burda 2011-08-137: