sdBev's Pants!

Archive for June 2012

  • In: 2000-11-140
  • Comments Off on Shorts from Burda 2000-11-140

I’m eager to test my pant’s fitting theory on other Burda pant patterns, but summer arrived.  Every year I’ve lived in the Mid-West we have 1 week springs.  We have deep winter with snow and then the weather warms a bit and we have cold rain and hail. Old Man Winter fools us by letting in a few warm days here and there over a period of weeks, months. OK what most people would think is spring time.  Then suddenly the temperatures climb. I mean they climb like 20 degrees from one day to the next and—-summer is here in about 7 days time.  This year I realized that my wardrobe wasn’t ready for summer temps.  I gained about 8 pounds last Christmas and began dieting in May.  I lost about 3 pounds almost immediately and then leveled off neither gaining nor losing for the longest time while still restricting calories and exercising as weather permitted. The end result is the shorts I planned to wear when summer arrived are too tight to be comfortable and I need new ones immediately.

Having just fitted Burda 2000-11-140, I decided to adapt it for summer shorts.  I drew a line between the knee marks and folded up the leg at that line.  Then I added 1.25″ length shaping for a turned up hem.   Shorts and tanks tops are perfect for a smaller cuts and left-over remnants of fabrics so I sorted through the Under2’s and retrieved a  turquoise cotton twill, a peach cotton-poly sheeting and a khaki-colored polyester twill.  Since I’d already fitted the pattern, I felt it was time to do some creative stuff.  I embroidered the back pockets of the turquoise and peach shorts.
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I started to embroider back pockets on the polyester twill but had issues.  The embroidery started off fine, but then about half way through the bobbin insisted upon coming to the top.  I changed needles and started it again.  It was stitching out beautifully so I continued to sew the already embroidered shorts.  To my disgust when the machine stopped the bobbin thread once again was coming to the top.  I really didn’t want to spend an hour removing the stitching and tried some corrective action with fabric markers.  Didn’t like the results. Nope. Not one bit. So I’m frowning at the messed up embroidery and decide that this polyester twill would look better without back pockets.  I confined my embellishments to two rows of stitching.
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After wearing I found the shorts to be too long.  They felt fine but looked dumpy in the mirror. The proportion of my normal-length tops and the shorts was just off.  I decided to remove 5 inches in length.  Now of course I didn’t have the width for a nice turned up hem.  I serged the raw edge and turned up a 1/2″ hem.  Not my favorite but it does well enough for badly needed summer shorts.   Here you see the turquoise and peach before the length change; the khaki shorts above have been shortened.
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Oddly I’m also finding the waist to be loose.  Oddly, because I used my classic straight waistband, the same waistband which worked so well with the previous pairs that I spent time basting and fitting.  I’m not sure if it’s a fabric issue or if I’ve just drunk enough water to begin flushing out my insides.
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I’ve also found during wear that all versions of 2011-11-140 feel slightly tight across my bu tt. The serging of the original pair have actually separated at the seam. The solution is scooping out the crotch a mere 1/4″. As I’ve written in previous posts, I think my rear is shaped differently. It may be due to having broken the ta il bone some 12 years ago. Whatever, the 1/4″ scoop makes a difference not in how the pants look, but in how they feel. I’m not upset with this. Future Burda pants patterns that I make will automatically include making the back inseam one size larger AND scooping the back crotch 1/4″.

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Well that’s what I think.  I’m a loyal patron of Heirloom Creations in Sioux Falls SD.  One of the reasons they deserve my loyalty is their blog which this month posted instruction for using the Bernina and Viking flat felling feet. I was fascinated and had to watch both videos. Rather than trying to describe the process just let me link the two videos from Heirloom Creations Blog but pay special attention to the bonus instructions for ties:
With the Bernina foot:

With the Viking Foot:

Now as soon as I saw the Sarah stitching the ties I said “Belt Loops”.  Yep right here in front of the computer all by my lonesome I said it out loud.  Couldn’t wait to get to the monthly Sewtopia meeting and look for the Viking foot. And the first thing I did when I got home was to start working with the foot.  OK, the first time I worked with the foot it wasn’t quite as easy as Sarah’s demonstration.  But I turned out a decent flat felled seam from two rectangular scraps on the first try and decided to move along to the real  subject of my interest the tie.  Let me show my results first:

Created with Viking Flat Fell Foot

I’m using a woven stretch fabric for testing.  I did that because it’s my favorite fabric to use for pants and I was anxious that the process work with stretch woven fabrics.

The narrowest tie (on the left) was created from a 1.25″ strip cut along the grain.  In fact all strips were cut on grain, not cross grain or bias.  I made the flat felled seam (not shown) and then immediately made the narrow tie.  It took one pass through the foot.  It was a little stretched out, so I pressed it immediately and that’s the final tie.  It finished about 1/4″ wide.

The middle strip is made from a 1.75″ wide stripe and proves that you can stitch in the wrong place.  I don’t know why but I realized that I was pulling the the fabric over to the left too far as it fed into the foot.  I’m thinking too much control. Because after that I just watched the bottom fold and made sure it was lining up with the visible groove on the foot. 1.75″ is what I usually cut for belt loops which then finish to about 1/2″.  My current process is to cut the 1.75″ strip, serge the raw edges together, turn the strip using my brass tube turners and give it a good pressing while trying to get the seam (now inside the tube) to lay on one side and not twist.  Usually this is the biggest problem for me and I make twice the amount of tubing that I need so I can cut around the goofs.  The last step is to stitch twice more; once on each edge of the tube.  This produces a nice crisp edge but take a long time.  Using the felling foot, the 1.75″ strips finishes about 3/8″ in a quarter of the time.

Now I’m nearly a plus sized woman.  I’m better visually-balanced if I make things like belt loops a little wider.   So for strip #3, the widest strip (on the right in the pic), I cut a 2″ strip on-grain.  It is passed through the machine twice.  Once to fold and stitch the left edge and then a second time to top stitch the other edge.  I could have changed to the edge-stitching foot for the final stitching, but I don’t think it’s necessary.  I also had better results of the last row of stitching by placing the strip under the foot and not through the guides.  Of course, YMMV.

Finally, I did try to fold and stitch both sides of a 2″ strip using an 8.0 twin needle.  If successful, it would have been 1 pass through the machine with the downside of a clearly distinguishable public and private side.  I wasn’t successful.  In fact that was the most frustrating  and I spent more time trying to use the twin needle than all the time  previously spent!  I noticed my mounting frustration and said , heck I can make beautiful belt loops with two quick, easy passes through the machine. Why go to this bother?  I may attempt it in the future.  The 6.0 twin needle was not wide enough for the 2″ strip.  The edge stitches would have been about 3/16 in from each side.  I wanted edge stitching which the 8.0 would have given me.  So I could try switching to the 1.75″ strip and a 6.0 twin needle.   I also used a sharp needle with a stretch woven because I didn’t have a ball-point or universal 8.0 needle.  So two more variables would be using non-stretch material or purchasing a different pointed needle.

Point is, right now I have found a new, quick and very easy way to stitch perfect belt loops.  I’m happy with that.

I’ve had time to contemplate the thrilling near perfect fit of Burda 2000-11-140.  This success is overwhelming because I’ve struggled for so long to find a reliable, simple fitting procedure for pants.  My recurring complaint is that I know why my tops don’t fit and therefore I know exactly what to do to fit tops BUT pants remain a mystery. With this success I’ve found a few more clues; a few more cause and effect solutions.

I  know that I’m 2 or 3 inches shorter than the industry standard.  That explains why I must shorten the back waist length in tops and shorten the leg in pants.  I’m OK with this and do it without question or thought.  Shortening the leg length 2″ solves a problem neatly, cleanly.

I know that my waist is tilted.  It’s my posture which results in a shorter front crotch than back crotch.  Interesting, most  pattern companies now recognize that this is standard.  But for many years I removed 1″ from the front crotch length and added 1″ to the back crotch length. I can’t tell you how wonderful it is that nearly all pants patterns are now adapted for the tilted waist –the way most bodies really are. But the point is my waist is tilted, which results in the front crotch being too long and the back too short. Shortening the front 1″  and adding 1″ to the back crotch length solves the fitting problem neatly, cleanly.

I know I have as much depth as width.   It explains why I seem to always be adding length to the back extension. But the recommended procedure is unsatisfying.  The recommended procedure is to slash and spread the back crotch and thereby the upper leg (or thigh).  This procedure adds the length I need for the crotch but it creates another problem by  adding additional ease to the back thigh.  So while it fixes one issue, it creates  another.  Not clean. Not neat. Not finished

I know that I”m not typically knock-kneed, but I do have fitting-symptoms of the condition.  My knee structure is straight whereas the diagnosis of knock-knee specifies that the knee will turn inward.  What I have is a saddle bag of fat on the inseam of each knee.  I have the fit effect of knock-knees no matter  the true diagnosis.  Thing is, I don’t have knock knee fitting issues with every pant. A puzzling difference because I don’t know when to alter for knock knees, when to ignore and when to blame fabric/pattern and throw it all in the trash.  I can’t fix the issue at the tissue stage, like I do with leg length and tilted waist, because I don’t know if I’m going to have issues until after I make the pattern.  Even then some fabrics will work well and others create those horrible X wrinkles.  Puzzling. Confusing. Not clean. Not neat. Not finished.

It’s these last two (body depth and knee saddle bags) which I think I’ve neatly solved, at least with Burda patterns. Making the pant one additional size larger, only on the back inseam, adds the body depth I need at the crotch and adds ease for the knee saddle bags at the same time without causing another issue.  By making one change, I’m fixing two issues  without creating another issue. Fabric choice doesn’t seem to have an effect.  This is similar to my narrow shoulder adjustment in that one change solves multiple issues …. neatly, cleanly.

I also have a question about this fitting procedure with Burda pants patterns is: Why do I need to choose a Burda PANTS pattern two sizes larger than the chart?  I don’t do that for tops. For tops, I trace the recommended size, shorten the back-waist length and make a narrow shoulder adjustment.  With 2 quick alterations, the same alterations I use for the Big 4,  I nearly always have a top pattern which fits me (I’m ignoring Burda’s habit of plunging necklines for everything except pajamas).  Why doesn’t that happen with Burda pant patterns?   I think the answer may be in my desired fit.  I prefer a looser fit than that of my European cousins. I don’t like to feel my clothes rubbing against my body. This may be because  I have some health issues (trying to avoid TMI here) which benefit from a bit of ease and natural fibers. When my clothes are too tight, health issues flare.  I also have a mental set of “tight enough to show a woman, loose enough to be a lady”;  an attitude fostered by years in the work force where in clothing could derail careers.   But I’ve also heard numerous complaints that the American Big 4 have “ridiculous” amounts of ease. It could be that I’m accustomed to more ease even if I complain about it.

Pant Fitting Issue Summary

  • Height
    • 2-3″ shorter than the industry standard
        • leg length is too long
          • shorten leg 2″
  • Waist circumference
    • waist is larger than dimensions on the charts
  • Tilted waist
    • crotch is 1″ longer in back and 1″ shorter in front
      • front has a bubble while center back pulls down at waist
        • shorten front 1″ add 1″ length to back crotch (included in many patterns_
  • Body depth
    • body is as deep as wide
      • bu tt vortex i.e. pant is pulled into crotch resulting in diagonal wrinkles forming around the an__ 0ra_ice
        • add length to the back extension or make the back inseam one size larger
  • KnockKnees
    • Pouches of fat on inner knee have effect of knock knees
      • diagonal wrinkles from between knee and calves; in conjunction with the body depth issues, the famous X wrinkles are readily apparent
        • slash tissue at knee and move bottom half inward; true all lines; or since body depth is an issue make the back inseam one size larger

I think I may have solved and understand all but 1 of my fitting issues:  that of my waist.  My waist is larger than the dimensions on the industry charts. Oddly I’m often adding darts rather than adding ease at the waist.  I also find that my straight waistband needs more length in front than the back; and that I frequently shorten the darts (both front and back) by 1 inch.  I find fitting the waist-band/facing to be critical in fitting the rest of the pant.  When the waist fits, the pant hangs correctly from my body. If the waist doesn’t fit the pant drops puddling below my bu tt in back and above the hip-joint in front.  Places that fit when the pant is in the correct waistline alignment, become too small when they drop lower.

As I pursue this 2012 goal of understanding why my pants fit or don’t, my perspective has changed.  Before I was looking at wrinkles (and vortexes).  Now I’m seeing my body is shaped ___ The industry standard is ___  I have ___ wrinkle I fix the wrinkles by ___.  I”m pleased with this change.  I don’t feel like I fully understand but the picture is getting a little more clear.

  • In: 2011-08-137
  • Comments Off on 2011-08-137 IRL (in real life)

Note* I meant to make this post before the I’ve got It post however life interfered so I’m doing my wearing review of not yesterday’s pants, but the pants from last week Burda 2011-08-137

My inclination is to try on pants and start tweaking the fit.  But this time, I chose to wear this pair all day; critique after having lived in them; and then determine a course of action.

My first impressions of too much ease in the front and behind the leg is still correct. This was however perfect for walking  along the beach on a sunny day.  The 100% cotton fabric no doubt contributed to the comfort of these pants.  I felt comfortable and appropriately dressed for the activity. After wearing I think the front crotch might be a smidge too long.  I’m glad I hemmed at 1.75′ instead of 1.25 and I feel perplexed.

I’m feeling perplexed because these have a cuff width of 16.5″. Nearly all patterns that are big enough to cover my rear end, also have 20″ and wider cuffs.  Marlena (wide leg, high waist) pants were popular about 2 years ago.  I didn’t make any then and don’t want any now.  Being short, I find that those wide cuffs make me look even shorter and even wider.  I will not wear a cuff wider than 20″ but finding narrower legs and cuffs is a challenge. It’s almost as if someone has decided that plus size ladies are not allowed to wear narrower cuffs. Why?

I did find that for once, I made the perfect fabric choice! Yes! I’ve had more wadders because I chose the wrong fabric for the pattern.  The soft nature of this fabric allows it to drape nicely; close to my body without outlining any body parts.  In another fabric, I might have been calling these “clown” pants. Because of the fabric, I’m thinking of them as comfortable for sunny, hot days.

In short, I like these pants.   I could work on tweaking the pattern.  But I’m really more interested in knowing if I have a repeatable success formula ie. a near fit every time.

I’ve started trolling through all my Burda issues looking for plus sized pants.  *Just a reminder, I’m not plus sized according to the charts.  I buy a size 14P or Large, but my measurements do not fit me into the plus size category either for RTW or patterns including Burda patterns.  But I need generous crotch rise and extensions.  I really am as deep as I am wide and the plus sized patterns seem to best address that figure feature.  So I’m trolling through all of my Burda collection for plus sized pants.  I find that Burda is pretty generous at always including in every issue at least one outfit for the larger sized ladies.   My sewing angel gave me several Burda Plus and Burda Special issues which are devoted entirely to the larger lady.   You’d think there would be an enormous range of styles. I’m finding that Burda uses the same patterns over and over.  Now sometimes, they are using the same style but drafted for different fabrics.  But mostly it is the same style over and over with the exact same details, for the exact same fabrics over and over.  I don’t know if Burda has decided that large ladies only buy these styles or if they decided that large ladies only look good in these styles.  It’s frustration to me to find that I have over 100  Burda styles, but really only a few different patterns. I can see why Burda Plus and Burda Style have lost readership.  What’s the point of our buying the magazine month after month.  Would I buy, over and over again, the same 5 patterns from the Big 4?

I’m feeling particularly frustrated because I want some jean styling in regular non-stretch denim.  I’d also like pants with narrower cuffs.  All I find are the same 20-27″ cuffs and trouser styling.  I’ve seen the exact same jean, in stretch denim at least 3 times.   Shorts? I can’t find anything above the knee.  Hey Burda, I don’t care if you don’t want to see my lily white legs.  When the temps hit 100+ I need to remove some fabric and cool off.  Would you rather that I just wear my bikini panties?

OK maybe I should be more generous. I don’t have every issue that Burda has ever published.  I have only about 40 issues.  I’m sure that I and many others appreciate the repetition of the best patterns.  It just seems like that number ought to be more than 5; would have many different details and  would contain styles that you might not think look good on us, but that we want to wear anyway.

That is I think I’ve got a routine for fitting Burda pants.

I chose Burda issue November 2000 style 140 for it’s jeans styling.  This is not a jean pattern but it has elements of the styling and a narrow leg. It should (and does) finish at 17.25″
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It was demonstrated in leather with the instructions to make a muslin before cutting the leather. I did some research, asked for advice at Stitcher’s Guild and came to the conclusion that a denim or other firmly woven fabric would work well.  My fabric is 100% cotton.  It is similar to denim in that the warp is yarn dyed threads but the weft is white.  The weave produces a subtle twill pattern.  This fabric is lightweight. Not like gauze or voile but a  comfortable weight for summer pants.

As I said this is not a jean pattern, but it does have  jean styling elements. Note the curved front pocket, back yoke and pockets; the fly zipper. Burda gives directions for a 3-piece straight waistband.   I’m using my faithful straight waistband from my JSM pattern.  As with the two previous Burda pants patterns, I cut 2 sizes larger, except for the back inseam. I cut the back inseam 3 sizes larger. I shortened the leg by 2″.  I did not cut a hem, although I added it to the pattern.  For this version, I decided to use a bias facing.

Someone please, strike up the band ! We’re looking at the first try-on, no hems; lots of basting; no accoutrements and the back looks:

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  EXCELLENT.  Really, I don’t think I need to fix a thing. I think I need to put on a belt and smooth the fabric into place. (Maybe pull the leg hem out of sandle strap) With just a little dressing effort, it’s going to be great.

I’m equally pleased with the side:
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That old side seam looks perpendicular to the floor and I’m pretty sure it’s bisecting my leg nearly perfectly

Can’t complain about the unfinished front either:
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I had to ease the waist to my waistband. The pant waist is, surprisingly, slightly too large.  I say surprising because my waist and hips do not have the same proportion as the standard.  According to the standard my waist is much too large and so I’m expecting to let out the waist. But  the opposite is necessary.

I promise to finish these pants and take pictures when properly styled i.e. hair, face, belt ,shoes — the little things which make such a difference.  I was so excited by these pictures, I had to share.  These pants have hardly been pressed; no effort was  made for the photos.  I was checking to see how the bu tt and crotch fit, if the leg was the right length and just general fitting.  I was thrilled to see that I have a good pair of pants to wear; and even more thrilled by the distinct probability that I have a good procedure to reach that destination pant after pant.

Burda I love your pants.

2011-08-137

Posted on: June 4, 2012

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Ok besides the “bad hair”, I don’t really have anything negative to say. My first glance summarizes me as a middle-aged woman dressed for spring temperatures and a casual outing. In this outfit, I’d be fine touring American Battleships, or sitting in the back yard drinking whatever. These pants are not form fitting. I’m not and am not attempting to be a hot-seductress or Hollywood Movie Star. I’m me: MidWestern, Mid-Age American-Female. I’m happy to be so.

I want to start critiquing this pattern with back. Please remember that this the very first try-on.

The waist feels too loose.  Indeed, I had to ease the pant waist to the waistband. I’m reluctant to make the waistband shorter. I’m the person whose waist seems to fluctuate daily, even hourly.  I have some internal issues which are not life threatening, but they do throw a kink into fitting clothing.

I had substituted the pattern piece with my classic JSM waistband after (inadvertently) clipping into the back pieces which resulted in needing to cut another 2 back pieces and their facings.

I wonder if I made a mistake during tracing.  I wonder, because as I looked at the pattern pieces and compared them with my straight edge, they seemed perfectly straight. I had expected a one-piece straight waist band and was surprised to find a 2 piece waistband with facings.  When I discovered my traced pieces look exactly straight, I decided to use my classic straight waistband instead.  For me, the first thing I must fit on pants is the waist.  The fit of the waist(band) affects how the pants hang and even the length of the rise. For me  to fit the crotch and then add a waistband results in disaster. It’s much better for me to start with a waist(band) that fits. My JSM waistband is so reliable that I’m reluctant to make it shorter even for these pants.  I prefer to rely upon belt loops and a belt to adjust the waist. Who knows, tomorrow I may need 2″ extra waist-ease.

This is important, because when the waist fits, I believe that the wrinkles in the back yoke and upper thigh  will disappear

I’m pleased that the crotch looks perfect. It is neither too loose nor too tight but could stand some expert steaming -me being the expert.

I think that the leg may still be too long.  I”m wearing sandles with 3/4″ thick soles. The back leg buckles just above the heel and repeats  up to the back thigh.  This buckling is not the normal pulling (drag lines) from a too short crotch or too tight hip; or the X-wrinkles of which I constantly complain.

In brief, I’m tremendously pleased with the fit of the back.

the Side view…

gives me critical information.  Because of my shape, I’m sometimes unsure if I need more ease in the back or the front.  Viewing the side seam tells me immediately which part of my body is desperately “borrowing” ease.

This pant doesn’t feel tight and the side seam is perpendicular to the floor with a minor tilt toward the back.  IOW, I have adequate ease in both the front and back. Once I tighten up the waist, the tilt will disappear.

I do start to perceive a bit  too much ease in the front.

I have second thoughts about the waistband. I cut the back yoke as directed and ended up with the lovely bias appearance. I cut the waistband on the grain specified, but I’m not so happy.  I feel like I should have tried to match the stripes. But that would have been impossible. Not only do I have 4 seams to interfere, but there are 2 deep front tucks AND the pattern calls for inseam pockets. All factors which affect my ability to match vertical stripes from hem through waistband.  I wish I had cut the waistband with the strips running horizontally.  However, since I normally dress with waistband covered, I don’t think it’s going to be a problem.

Once again, I think this pant is still a bit long.  I’m undecided as to whether I need to hem it 1/2″, or 1″, or more higher.

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.I find the “straight on” front view rather shocking.

I’d say the front is a size or more too large.

Yet the crotch hangs without issue.  It could be that the tucks, which introduced more style-ease, are the sole factor in the too-large appearance.  Most often, pants fit me perfectly in front, but need a bit more effort in the back.

I do see that the grain appears to slightly angle inwards at the hem.  This corresponds with the slight lean I noted on the side seam.  I’m not sure but it could again be the effect of the waistband being too large–today.

 

ONE THING I WANT TO POINT OUT:  the hem is 16.5″ wide exactly what Burda promised!  This is 3″ larger than the Style Arc pattern.  I’m not really sure I want/need a 13.5″ pant cuff.  I really like these. OTOH, I’m not averse to trying another Burda Pattern with a narrower cuff/hem.

 

 

 

 

 

So what am I going to do?  Well first thing I’m doing  is throwing confetti in the air.  I’m at a loss to describe how pleased I am with these pants.  Yes they have issues–MINOR issues. I know that I need to sew yet another Burda pant pattern following the same criteria i.e. pant

  • 2 sizes larger than suggested
  • tracing back inseam 3 sizes larger
  • legs 2″ shorter

 

But for now, I’m making this pair wearable immediately through.

  • adjusting the belt loops need adjusting (not quite wide enough -my fault entirely. )
  • Hemming at 1.75″ instead of 1.25.
  •  Repllacing all the WST with permanent 2.5mm stitching
  • Oh and I’m subscribing to Burda Plus IMMEDIATELY

I’ve chosen an all cotton fabric—not the gabardine as recommended.  Gabardine is defined as a tightly woven wool fabric. It seems to me that Gabardine has a diagonal effect in the weave.  Gabardine is good at resisting wrinkles which is one of the reasons it’s a top choice in pants.  My choice of the cotton fabric starts with the hope this pattern might fit. If so, I want something comfortable to wear this summer.  Summer is pleasant in my-neck-of-the-woods.  We have about 1 week of oppressive high temperatures than weeks of comfortably warm weather.  But I still need a lighter-weight, er cooler fabric for summer; and I need protection from the sun and the bugs.  Cotton will give me everything I need except the exact fabric match.  The missing characteristic I’m concerned about is wool’s (gabardine) inherent elasticity that I won’t experience with the 100% cotton.

I traced my pattern as planned i.e. two sizes larger than recommended for my measurements but 3 sizes larger at the back inseam while shortening the legs 2″ . I know it’s an questionable combination.  Like everyone else, I can use Burda’s suggested size for tops based upon my measurements.  I then make the same adjustments to Burda top patterns that I do to the Big 4.  I’m still formulating a theory or reason for why I need a different approach (size wise) for pants. For starters,  I think that I must like more ease in pants than most women. I’m also using non-stretch fabrics (which shouldn’t matter because I’m also using patterns for non-stretch fabrics) because most of the pants fabrics in my stash are non-stretch.

FWIW,   RTW pants NEVER fit me. I buy RTW pants only when I desperately need something immediately. My problem with RTW is not styling.  I do find things I think are appropriate and cute. I often copy RTW details. My issue with RTW pants  is that they  always burrow into my bu tt–what I like to call the Bu tt vortex.  Without question, I need more depth to my crotch than RTW accomodates and possibly more depth than most women need.  I’m hoping I’ve found the magic combination by which nearly all Burda pants will fit me.  If this combination works, I’ll subscribe to Burda and never buy a pant pattern anywhere else.

I’ve sewn with permanent stitching the zipper and the back yoke to back pant leg.  Everything else is sewn with water-soluble thread in the bobbin.  I find the WST will last through steam-less pressing and multiple try-on. When it’s time to rip out, a good sharp yank on the top thread and I’m done. I folded the hem up at the planned depth (1.25″) and then basted into place with WST. I tell you all this to prepare you for my very first fitting with Burda 2011-08-137:

I

  • In: 2011-08-137
  • Comments Off on Burda August 2011 Style 137

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I continue to dislike Burda’s photographic policies. This pic above wouldn’t tempt me. But this:
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especially when compared to Sytle Arc’s Audrey:

has my interest.   Audrey is described “Ankle length with front tucks, narrow leg and angled pockets; approximate hem circumference: size 10 = 34cm ” (about 13.5 inches)  and suggested fabrics  Melton wool and gabardine.

I like the Audrey for several reasons. I find the front tucks very helpful.  My tummy, in addition to being larger than the standard, seems to start almost immediately after the waistband. I’m always, or so it seems, shortening both the front and back darts.   I also like a straight, narrow waistband and belt loops.  While I have nicely fitting pants patterns, I’m desiring a narrow leg design.  At 13.5″,  Audrey fills my wish. But I’m not making the Audrey.

Both Burda 137 and Audrey patterns suggest gabardine for fabric. Both have similar design lines.  I don’t believe the Audrey has a back yoke and 137 has a wider cuff (16.5″).  But  I bought Audrey a size too small. Style Arc patterns come in only one size. Using the Audrey  would necessitating grading up. A process which I did not do successfully with my other Style Arc pattern.  In the end, I made so many changes to the pattern, I couldn’t be sure it  still was a Style Arc pattern.  I’m reluctant to make another 5 pairs of pants to produce one that I won’t wear.  Burda137 is available in multiple sizes- no grading. While  Burda pants sizing is not always reliable for me, I’ve had enough success to tackle another.  I’ve also made a break through that has me anxious to follow up by testing on a different pattern. My discovery is that I need to choose Burda pants by 2 sizes larger than recommended and 3 sizes larger for the back inseam.  That’s probably confusing.  Think of it this way: if I were a size 0, I would trace  a size 2 pattern except I would trace the back inseam of the size 3 (truing lines as needed).

And so begins my next pants fitting experiment.