Willow

Willow 04

Please don’t judge the pattern by these pics:
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I started by looking in my stash for a “good” pants fabric.  I wanted a lightweight fabric because it’s summer.  I wanted a fabric with a little body because Muslin3 told me this pattern didn’t look so good clinging to my body.   I skipped stripes. I don’t know why.  I just didn’t want to sew a stripe right now.  Finally my hands alighted on the single piece of suit weight Bengaline that I have.  I thought it would be perfect, lightweight, camel colored and hey a little stretch.
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The little stretch, was a gross mistake.  While fitting Muslins1-3 I had added 3 inches of ease.  In order to get the Bengaline to stay on my body, I needed to remove 4.  If this fabric is typical of what the Aussies sew with, I can understand why they are always complaining that the Big4 pattern companies use a hideous amount of ease.
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So fabric is first is the reasons for not judging this pattern by these pics. Style Arc recommends  woven, lightweight but crisp bodied fabric.  They know quite well what Bengaline is and they do NOT recommend Bengaline for this pattern.  They are right.
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Also, I’m really leery of all the chopping I did on this pattern.  I added and added ease.  I scooped the crotch. Twice. I chopped 4″ of length off the legs and redrew the hem markings. Last thing I did was to walk the seams.  The original pattern seams and tick marks all match.  On the copy,  I had to lengthen the front leg and the only tick marks that match, are the inseam notches.  I did so much to this pattern, I don’t trust it anymore.

It looks like the pant has too much ease but removing even another 1/16″ make the pant too tight.  The front is dropping, like the waistband is still too lose, yet I’ve removed 2″ in length from my trusted waistband. The waistband that works with woven and knit fabrics. The waistband that never needs more than 1/8″ adjustment.   I remeasured the waistband and it is the same length as when cut.  The difference in length is entirely the action of the fabric.  It also looks like the pant back and leg is drooping again. Like 1/2″ scooping is not enough.  I honestly think the Bengaline is continuing to stretch.  Interesting note, hem circumference is estimated at 12 inches.  This pair finished at 16″.

I’m treating this like I would a Lycra fabric.  I’m assuming that the handling it has received is part of the problem.   I’ll launder and try again. But really I don’t think I look worse than anyone else in the grocery line and besides these are comfortable.

However, I was so intrigued with the differences created by the Bengaline, that I immediately started on Willow 05….. coming up.

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