Willow

Willow: The End of Muslin 3

I scooped the back as planned and then chopped 2″ off the bottom of the pants legs.   I didn’t press the muslin again.  It’s been worn less than 5 minutes.  I just set up the camera and took pics.


I’m pleased to see the waistband has reacted as expected to trimming out the bottom of the crotch 1/4″.  That is the center back has moved upward and the waistline is now level instead of slanted upwards towards the front.

I also note that less of my belly bulge can be seen but there is still the appearance of ruching along the side front seam.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.
Photobucket
The front does look improved.  I’m not seeing the back of my pants leg anymore, but the front crotch still looks a bit odd and of course the belly bulge is horribly visible.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

PhotobucketPhotobucket.

I added two poses for the back, checking again on Sew4Fun’s leg shift theory. I think the amount of diagonal wrinkles is the same, they are more prominent with the normal stance i.e. legs together.

Scooping the crotch 1/4″ made the pant even more comfortable and look a bit better.  I’m not sure, but I think in a good pant fabric, something with a little body, the crotch shape could be fine as is. If this were a full legged pant, I would want the crotch rise lengthened another 1/2″

While scooping was good for the crotch, it did little or nothing to relieve the excess in the back of the thigh.

And of course, scooping did not add any ease across the back.

.

.

.

.

.

.

But you’ve seen the end not only of Muslin 3, but of all musling to this pant.  I’m breaking out the good fabric.  Yes!  I really feel that the fabric is the biggest issue in how this muslin appears.  I do think I will use a woven with just a bit of stretch. I’m also going to add another 1/4″ to the side seam of only the back.  I’m still not sure that the diagonal lines are from the relationship of the leg to the torso. I’ve not needed to make this adjustment to my JSM’s, but the JSM is a trouser pattern. The lines point upward and while you can’t see it,  the inseam hem actually pulls up just about 1/4″.   I’m still thinking this a back crotch issue.  Instead of 1/4″ I’m going to start by scooping the wearable pair 3/8″.  As Sew4Fun says, there are no wrinkless garments, especially pants, especially the slacks draft.  I doubt that these wrinkles would even be noticed by anyone besides myself and fellow dressmakers.

Advertisements