sdBev's Pants!

Willow Sewing the 2nd Muslin

Posted on: May 23, 2012

  • In: Willow
  • Comments Off on Willow Sewing the 2nd Muslin

Sewing Muslin #2 took no time.  The WSS I used with Muslin 1 made it easy to re-use the zipper. As for the fabric, well it served it’s purpose. Muslin 2, as expected from comparing the first tracing with my JSM pattern, is far too tight. But I took  pictures anyway and I’m sharing them, because I wanted to get a baseline for this pattern (and the pattern company) rather than add alteration on top of alteration.  Also, I re-read Sew4Fun’s Blog . I admire her greatly and learned several helpful facts from reading her pants adventures.  One thing I wanted to know, was did the twisting in the legs occur because of my alterations or because of the basic draft. Sew4Fun discusses this concept in detail but from the viewpoint of each drafts fit a body differently according to not only measurements but posture or how your body parts hang together.  One of Sew4Fun’s personal standard alterations is shifting the leg towards the center of the body because that’s how she stands.  (Keep this in mind when reading my comments below.)

Again no question about it, the pants are too tight, the crotch is too short and the legs are too short.
First thing to note about the BACK is that the legs, now cut as StyleArc drafted, don’t feel all that tight.

The legs  are not hugging my knees but there are drag lines eminating from the knee area.

The crotch is entirely too short both in the rise and in the extension.  See how it burrows between my cheeks?  Not the look I’m going for.

The body of the pant is very tight.  I could zip it up but not sit down. Yet there are diagonal folds of fabric beneath my hinaie. Diagonal folds often indicate a mismatch between body shaping and fabric ease. The ease is there all right, just in the wrong place.

Most of the leg folds and buckling seen in Muslin 1 have simply disappeared.  I’m not standing normally.  That’s me with legs spread wide apart.  I’m beginning to suspect that I need to do Sew4Fun’s 3/8″  Leg shift.

Back needs:

+1 ” crotch height

+1″ width ease.

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The FRONT has lost it’s buckling above the hip, that’s my belly you are seeing.

I don’t have Camel Toe, but I can tell that the crotch is too short.  I need to add height a the center front

There are sparse drag lines pointing from hem to crotch.  I’m not sure if that is telling me the front  crotch is being pulled to the back (which happens when the back crotch extension is too short) or if it’s more indication that the legs are set too far apart.

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I’m showing th side because I want to note two things

The side seam is pretty straight until about 6 inches below the waist. Then it swings wildly forward. This could indicate there is too much fabric in the back, but given my body and belly, it’s more likely that I need more ease added to the front than added to the back.

I also want to look closely at the hem.  The inseam is swinging upward, further proof that my crotch is too short.

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And so what am I going to do? Well the nice people at StyleArc said if all I need is 1 inch, 2cm, they really recommend that I grade the pattern up and they sent me the instructions to do it. How about that? Have you ever had another company that would help you in such detail. Nevahhhhhh!
My plan is slow and sure.
Trace the original pattern without alterations
Add 1″ length to the rise both front and back.
Using StyleArc’s instruction, grade adding net 2″ ease divided between front and back

Terminator time….  OH PS sorry about all those strange commas (,).  I’m new to WordPress and that was the quick, dirty and wrong way to position my text where I wanted to position my text.  I promise I will learn more and do better in the future.

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