I knew something was terribly wrong as soon as I tried stitching the inseams together. The back inseam, as a result of adding the crotch length I need, was far longer than the front. The result is ruching along my inner thigh fanning out as would gathers across the back leg.
The back crotch is almost OK. It feels tight even though it doesn’t look bad. I think if I scooped it just 1/4″ to create the J shape I need, it will be OK. Also, the center back is pulling away from my own back.
I removed all the excess leg length just above the hem. I don’t know if I removed enough or removed it in the right place. The fabric is also buckling around my knees as well as twisting. I knew when looking at the traced pattern, adding the crotch length I needed had also spread the legs further apart, which I don’t need. The result is the twisting around the knees
Then there are other issues. Most notably the pant legs feel too, too tight. I can barely move within them. The legs might be OK if this was a knit fabric but I don’t like the way my knock-knees are being outlined. Perhaps I should never make or wear a hem circumference less than my knee circumference? But it seems a shame not to show off one of the few assets I can boast, that of a nice trim ankle.
While the waistband and immediate area look good, the pant is buckling just above the hip crease and all the way down. Despite having been shortened 3″, the leg is definitely too long. I’ve seldom had a pant front look so bad.
Remember the front pattern was largely unaltered. I added crotch height, the zipper underlap and shortened the leg. The back was a mismash between JSM and Willow and perhaps shouldn’t even been credited to the Willow pattern.
I think the real issue here is that I purchased a size (or more) too small. Which is really interesting. From my measurements the folks at Style Arc suggested a 12. I purchased a size 14.
I should also note that my fabric is not really pant fabric. I felt terribly uneasy about the direction my changes were taking and chose to use a left over cotton/poly curtain material and stitch with water soluble thread.
At the moment I’m debating on what to do next. I have asked the Style Arc folks for a size recommendation based upon needing an extra inch of ease on the back side. It could be that buying the correct size would make all the real problems disappear. In a way, I’d like to keep working on the size I have. I really think that leg should be shortened more, even as I’m adding a little more ease. I really wished my understanding of drafting was much better.
ETA : I got carried away on critiquing and forgot to mention the things I like. I do like the slimness of these pants. I also really liked that the pattern seam allowances are 3/8″. That doesn’t give any extra for alterations, but it is so easy to sew. I usually sew a pattern, and I think I will use it again, I trim the SA’s to 3/8″. If I trace Burda patterns, I add only 3/8″. A 3/8 SA doesn’t need to be clipped around curves and can be fed through my serger right at the edge. Which means much less serger mess to clean up. And I think, which I do like, that these pants aren’t that far from fitting. It’s probably going to be 1 major change that fixes everything.