I’ve succumbed to the temptation of the new pattern company in Australia, Style Arc. It was inevitable because I’m such a sucker for pants patterns. I’m always hoping that the next pattern will be the “Holy Grail.” You’d think that having 3 would be enough, but no, I need to try these as well. I purchased 4 patterns from Style Arc. Two are pants patterns. The Audrey
and the Willow
Both are for woven fabrics. The Audrey reminds me of the pants I was wearing for work at least the last 15 years I was working. That front pleat can be manipulated to fit very nicely . The Willow reminds me of my TNT JSM pattern except the leg is slimmer.
I decided to work with the Willow first because it does look so much like my JSM. I love the JSM but I always wish I could remove just a bit more ease from the back of the thigh. I also desire a slimmer leg – just as an alternate look. I know I will keep making and wearing the JSM as is, but sometimes I’d like a pant with slimmer leg.
So I’m started. I rough trimmed the Willow’s pattern pieces and pressed them carefully. Then I started comparing with my JSM.
The Willow’s front side is much more curved and adds another 3/8 between the hip bone and seat. I’m pleased to see this. I’ve shortened the darts and added a small wedge starting at the top and extending to about the same depth on my JSM’s. I have a belly. It’s not as large as some people’s but it’s definitely there and needs a bit of room. Think of it this way, instead of a hump-back, I’ve got a hump-belly. It’s unusual and pleasantly surprising to see a pattern drafted to accommodate my little extra.
I’m not quite sure about a pattern detail and have written the designers. One of the advantages of buying “Indy” patterns, is that the designers will usually correspond with you about your issues no matter how trivial. My initial concern with the Willow is the straight waistband and the crotch length. I expect a straight waistband to sit with the seam at my waistline, the band extending above and the top of the waistband to be above my waist, in this case 1 inch above my waist. That’s nice width for a straight waistband on my body. But if this is what should happen, the crotch height is 1.5″ too short both front and back. If however the top of the waistband should sit at my waistline, I need a contour waistband. My body is shaped in that area and the waistband needs to be shaped or the pant will always be falling off my body.
So for the front, I need to shorten the legs 3″, and adapt the waist by either adding 1.5″ to the crotch height, or using my contour waistband.
The back is a different story. While the fronts were very similar in shape, the backs are difficult to align and compare. I’m pleased to see the shape of the back crotch. The extension is generous but still shorter than my JSM. It’s also an L type shape just barely rounded while I need more of the J or fishhook. The back waistline slopes upward from side to crotch indicating that the drafter has already added additional depth. I think I may have purchased a size too small. The back is at least 1″ too small across the rear. While I had hoped to have less ease across the thigh, I know I need more ease across the butt.
So to the back I need to shorten those legs 3″, I also need to resolve the waistband issue. Additionally I need to add 1″ to the crotch extension and 1″ to the width.
The waistband is 1″ too short. Now, this is usual for me. I think nothing of pulling out my personal waistbands and using those instead.
What I actually did?
I use my waistband but copied the pointy end of the Willow and will trim my waistband to the same shape.
The front, I shortened legs 3″, added the underlap for a front zipper and extended the top by copying my JSM.
The back, shortened legs 3″, copy the JSM from crotch to waist; copy leg from crotch to hem.
Am I making a muslin? You bet. I’m not sure that a frankenpattern pant half one pattern half another is going to work at all.
Terminator time aka I’ll be back