KS 3193 Third Try

I’m convinced that this pattern needs only a little tweaking to be a nice jean.  But I don’t make any changes. That’s important.  After my last goof, I retraced the back yoke, lined it up carefully and trimmed at those places which need to be trimmed. On the back yoke that was only one point with at most a 1/8″ sliver trimmed.

Then I chose my fabric. Because this will be wearable, I want a nice fabric. I chose a corded fabric. Not corduroy, but a light weight fabric in which the warp is heavier than the weft. This creates a corded effect. It is a very stable fabric, another important fact to keep in mind.

I also decided, since these were so close to being fitted, to do something experimental.  I’ve had a package of double-eye needles for a long time.  This is not two needles connected together, but one needle with two eyes, one eye above the other on the same shaft.  Most of the time you can simply place two threads through a single needle eye to make a more pronounced top stitching.  With the double-eye needle you have more control of how the threads are stitched.  It opens up possibilities for color control, but this time I just wanted to see how it worked. I threaded both needles with the same Gutterman thread, chose a single stitch with a 4.0 length. I used this for all my topstitching. Let me show the back pants pocket to illustrate:

The double-eye needle does make a very nice topstitching with regular sewing thread. I had to slow down my stitching or the threads would loop becoming messy.  I was using a size 12 universal.  I might not have had the looping issue if I’d used a larger needle (14 or 16) or used a sharp.  I’m pleased with the outcome. But not sure if I’d want to do this again.  The looping was a headache causing me to stop and rip out. But stitching a straight stitch was faster than the double stitch that I normally use.  Both produce an excellent top stitching, double-eye is faster, double stitch trouble-free.

First I labeled the ends of the yoke and carefully matched. To my utter surprise I have the same final issues, the worst being the peak at the center back:

Which causes a bubble under the waistband when attached to the waistband:

I note that the back is buckling almost the entire length between knee and waistband. Like the distance is too long. except then I see the crotch trying to climb even higher which tells me there isn’t enough width-wise ease. The torso is too tight.  Why?  Other than the retraced yoke, the pattern tissue is exactly the same.  Both the Red Linen and the Blue Broadcloth versions had sufficient ease. The front and the side are supporting the too tight, or too little ease conclusion.

But, I’ll say it again, both previous versions had more than enough ease.

I’ve stopped on these. I”m not sure I’m even going to finish them.  I think the fabric is the biggest issue.  I noted that it was a very stable fabric but i also wonder if it is continuing to shrink every time I blast it with steam. Which honestly hasn’t been that much.  I pressed with steam before cutting out the fabric. Since cutting it has been pressed at the zipper application; the  pocket application and before try-on all seams were pressed.  It’s not as if I’ve stood at the ironing board and bore down for minutes at a time with steam. I’m talking quick puffs, up and down motion and just before try-on smoothing the entire pant.

But the peak at the center back has me stumped.  I don’t remember this issue with the first pair (the Red Linen) and find it hard to believe that the slivers I removed could have caused this much error.  I have decided I need to compare the tissue with the master pattern and ensure that is true.

But it will be a few days….  My Inktense supplies have arrived and I will be working  on that project for a few days. Also I’ve finally joined the throngs of Style Arc fans and ordered my first 3 Style Arc patterns.  I ordered the Willow and Audrey pants; Annie’s Cammie and of course the freebie for May, the Ada Knit top. For some reason, my shipping was only $20, total is $60 which averages to $15 each and is comparable to US Indy patterns with shipping.

2 thoughts on “KS 3193 Third Try”

  1. FWIW I’ve never been able to attach a yoke the way you’re showing – many patterns also show that. I attach each yoke to the back piece then sew the center back seam. IF you were going to do a flat fell, which I don’t, wouldn’t you also have to attach the yokes as I do? The worst I ran into was CC – her yoke has a bit of ’roundness’ to it – no way could I get it to work – so ripped and attached “my” way!! HTH

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