KS 3193

I liked the Red Linen KS3193’s so well I decided to finesse the pattern a little.  The waist was too big while the abdomen a bit close. Besides, I miss the little things that TJ906 incorporates.  That pattern and Jalie 2908 almost sew themselves.  The seams have all been walked so that they match exactly. Also the ends are trimmed so that they match perfectly during sewing. That means a little awkward trimming during cutting which can feel senseless.  I find that I’m cutting little wedges off the pointy ends. But when I get to the serger and sewing machines, those wedges make the yokes, fronts and backs match up perfectly.  So I carefully pinned together and walked the pieces of KS3193. I trimmed the ends and where the yokes and back pant crotch meet I trued that curve.

Knowing that the previous version fit very nicely, I chose an equally nice fabric for the second version.   I need long pants to protect me from the summer sun. But I need the long pants to be comfortably cool in the summer heat.   I chose a cotton broadcloth.  I like cotton broadcloth for summer shorts and winter blouses. I’m still testing this pattern so I thought testing this fabric would be a good idea.  I do think there is a tiny bit of polyester or some other man-made fiber incorporated into this broadcloth but not enough to change the feel from cotton and not enough to prevent wrinkles.  I’m not sure how good of a choice this is for long pants. If it is too wrinkly or too warm, I may very well rehem at a much higher level.
I took my time constructing and top stitching front and back pockets.  I also top stitched the waistband and yokes. But the side seams stopped me cold.  Front and back were not the same length.    I had trimmed the waistline by about 3/8″ on the front only.  I rechecked the pattern pieces and the side seams should have matched.  The inseams matched, so I sewed both inseam and side seams and trimmed the excess at the hem. The I stitched the crotch together and gave it a shot of steam before adding the waistband.  To my surprise, the back yoke peaked something fierce.  I puzzled this out for about 10 minutes before realizing that I had sewn the yokes to the pant back in reverse. I mean what should have been the crotch was sewn to the side and what should have been the side was sewn to crotch. Oh and I broke my “baste it al together first” rule, these pieces were all serged and the yokes topstitched.  What did I do?  I trimmed the peak and eased the pant waist to the waistband.  Strangely, the pant feels and looks fine.  I do see some pulling at the waist, like I don’t have the side seam correctly aligned on the waistband.  Fortunately that will be covered up by my tops. Even stranger, the front and side pics turn out pretty good.  The back pic, taken first, is dark but when lightened is washed out and unviewable.
But now I don’t know if this is a TNT.  I don’t know if I’ve solved the major problems and I need to make another pair correctly this time.