Revisiting the ()neSeams

originally published 4/30/12


Photobucket I started the 2nd pair without realizing that I had cut the elastic too short.  I did not like the way the rayon pair looked although the crotch (scooped 3/8) and back were very improved.  For the 2nd pair, I chose a woven-stretch fabric, I’m not sure of the stretch factor.  This is an old fabric.  It’s been in my stash for at least 15 years and I think I bought it at a yard sale so it would have been in someone else’s stash for several years before that.  It is a good quality fabric.  I know I was thinking jacket but I don’t wear jackets often.  A nice pair of pants seemed to be a better choice even if I wouldn’t be able to wear them until this fall. Yes this is a cool weather fabric.  I did take the time to add front and back pockets.  I think pockets are an excellent design feature. Also pockets are slimming because they  break up all the big blank spaces. Once I replaced the elastic with the correct length, I could look objectively at the pant style. You know, I don’t think I care for the style. Photobucket

There is considerable bulk at the waist.  Vertical folds of fabric accumulate from the widest point of the hip up to the waist. and again below the widest point of the hip to the knee. These are the pants “What Not To Wear” and other fashionista urge everyone else to wear.  Interestingly there is only about a 5 inch difference between my waist and hip measurement. The problem for  me is the greatest amount of decrease happens in the 2 inches immediately after my front hip bones and up to my waist. I always seem to be shortening waist darts by about an inch. Oh and making them deeper as well.  It’s one of those personal fit issues that I’ve referred to. You know when I said I thought it was impossible for designers to make the claim that their design woud fit everyone because fit is subjective.  We each have our own view of what fit is.  For me a good fit includes a close waistband that will hold my clothes at my waist. Photobucket

I’m also noticing something I think may have been there but not seen before.  By the interior of my knee there appears to be a buldge.  You can’t see this in the back view, but it is forming on the back half of the pant. I don’t know if this is still an issue with the back hanging.  Removing any more from the length of the elastic distorts the entire pant and makes it look bad. I know because I tried.

I also think that there’s too much ease for the fabric.  Yes it’s on my body, but had this been a non-stretch fabric I think the ease would have a different appearance.  It’s possible I should have folded out 1/4to 1/2″ on the pattern side. I will wear these.  Probably with tights and/or long johns. Which means the extra ease will be filled out and look different.  Besides the true test of pants is the bank/grocery line.  If you’d been behind me at the grocery store today you would have seen: Photobucket

I think I passed.