Revisiting ()neSeams

originally published 4/29/12


Purging my patterns brought to light several pants patterns still in the boxes but no longer in the my index/database. I recognized these as being ()neSeams or variations and Kwik Sew patterns all of which I’d given up getting to fit.  When I worked with the Kwik Sew patterns, I’d not heard of scooping.  Of course for the ()neSeams, I’d been forbidden to touch the crotch shape.  Recognizing that my crotch my be differently shaped due to being broken, I now feel free to alter any pant pattern, regardless of the designers instructions; and before finally tossing these patterns, I decided to make one more attempt.

I was actually close to fitting the ()neSeams.  I was really close to creating a wearable pant on my own:

When the designer decided to step in and help. Now the designer did help me create a nice looking pant:

but it was uncomfortable to wear.  It rubbed uncomfortably on my tailbone. To which she had no response. Perhaps if I had told her of the decade old accident she would have been more sympathetic.

Now I wanted to test my new-found epiphany. I regretted having gotten rid of all my versions of  ()neSeams because it meant needing to sew another to test my idea. I chose a heavy, lightly crinkled, rayon. One think I will say about ()neSeams, they are fast to sew. I’d already done the fitting. All I had to do was prepare the fabric, layout the pattern, cut and then sew, not one but 5 seams. The way I sew it, I have 2 leg seams, 1 crotch seam, 1 waistband seam and one seam to join the elastic. Even with the designer’s help, I’ve never had fewer seams. But it’s pretty darn quick. I serged all the seams except the waistband. That I stitched into place using a basting length stitch. I then cut the elastic. I’ve gained a few pounds since that last fitting, so rather than use the length I recorded, I recalculated for my current sized waist. I slipped on this new creation to take a pic. I’m expecting something like the aqua pants, but in grey. What I see is… Photobucket 80-year-old butt. Now don’t start mentally making adjustments. For starters, this is not a flat butt:

And I’ll follow-up by saying, I was really perplexed that the same pattern produced pants which looked good (despite how they felt) and a pair of droopy butt ickies. I immediately thought there was no hope for this pattern.   But overnight I realized that I should continue to fit these just like any other pair of pants if I really want to test my theory.  So I start think and looking, taking pics and finally said “go back to the beginning”.  It’s a well-known saying “if you become lost along the way, go back to the beginning.”  So if I were fitting these from ground zero with no previous adjustments I would say “the back crotch is too long and everything is dropping underneath my butt.”. Huh? How could a crotch which fit perfectly previously and measures correctly, now be too big? It’s the waist.  I know I have to fit the waist first.  Why did I over look this fact?  Because I had fit the waist before. There’s only 1/2″ more around my middle than before and I followed the designer’s instructions for cutting the elastic. So skip the designers instructions and make that elastic the length it needs to be. That produces a great pair of

pajamas. Yeah, I’m not wearing these in public anytime soon. But I will point out that the diagonal drapes under the butt are gone. The pant leg is mostly hanging straight down. I do see a bit of pull and hanging up on my knees. Importantly, they don’t tug on my tailbone. They are comfortable to wear because the last thing I did was scoop the back crotch about 3/8″.

My final thought is that this drapey rayon is not a good choice for this leg width. So I transferred the scoop back to the pattern and hunted for a more suitable fabric.