originally published 5/1/12
I’m calling the ()neSeams a success. I may want to tweak the amount of ease or even change the elastic waist for a zippered and trimmer silhouette. But by far, I’m happier with this iteration than any previous.
So much so that I proceeded to Kwik Sew 3193: If ever there was a mom jean, this is it. The straight waistband and extra ease across the back thigh are dead giveaways. Not all is lost. The waistband keeps my pants up. I do not notice the bulge at the knees I was seeing in the last ()neSeams. Also I notice that when I sit, that excess ease is taken up by my thighs. My fabric is 100% linen in a coral-red. I love linen especially for summer. It’s one downfall is that it continues to shrink with each laundering which in my case is with each wearing. IMO anything riding in the hoo-hoo area needs to be cleaned after each wearing. Basically, I unfolded the master pattern and stacked the crotch from TJ906 on top aligning grain lines. I did note that the back crotch slope is very similar between the two patterns and the grain line exactly the same. I traced the crotch from TJ906 and all the other lines from KS3193. So it’s KS3193 with TJ906 crotch. Make sense? Oh wait, I did change the length. TJ906 is already the perfect length. I didn’t see the point in making the pattern 4″ too long just to cut it off a few minutes later. I copied the width of the KS3193 waistband, but marked the length and side seams according to my JSM waistband. OK so now we’ve got a KS3193 pant with a TJ906 crotch and JSM waistband. My one issue is not with the crotch but with the abdomen which then affect the waist. I needed to let the side seams out 1/4″ on both sides at the abdomen. This gave me far too much ease in the waist. I’m also the one who likes a closer fit waist. I did the Nancy Erickson trick of easing the pant waist to the waistband. Interestingly, from centerback to side seam corresponded, all the excess waist-ease was in the front. It’s really kind of crinkled in the front. I skipped the pockets during cutting. At that point I wasn’t sure this would be successful. I’d made this pant before. In fact I’d made several of this pant before. I loved how it felt and looked except for the back thigh. I could never get rid of those diagonal lines. It was my insecurity in this area that justified the choice of the linen fabric. I felt like if I couldn’t fix the diagonal wrinkles at least I wouldn’t have to wear the finished pant for too long. After the first fitting I scrambled to make this pair just a little more fashionable. I didn’t want to do very much because, I’m not expecting more than 3 wearings. So I cut the back pockets and did some rather plain top stitching. Verdict is, I like these mom jeans and I’m very glad to have found my fit answer. One sec, I know that it’s not enough to just transfer the crotch shape from one pattern to another. I have tried that in the past without any success. The truth of the matter is, these two patterns TJ906 and KS3193 were similar to start with. It was changing to a waistband which fits and a crotch shape which works that made this version successful. Most interesting was that in previous versions of KS3193 I had shortened the front crotch length, deepened the back crotch length, removed several wedges from under the seat and even done a flat seat adjustment. That was all replaced with a single elegant solution of a deep fish-hook crotch.
I think they pass the bank-line test.