CJ 1010 Do-Over

originally published4/9/12


So let’s review from the beginning.—NOT to mean I’m forgetting the hard won knowledge…,,,

  • I know adding 2″ to the back crotch length is far too much; however not adding anything would adversely affect both the front and back (see the sample and Fabric#1) . I need to add back-crotch length, agreed?  How much?  I settled on 1″.  I think I can tweak up to 1/4″ either way without adversely affecting the hang of my pants.
  • I also know that there is ample width-ease for a woven fabric.  There is no need to add 3/8″ to the side seams (as done with Fabric 2). In fact, repeatedly I had looked and thought “it’s just too big all over”.
  • I know that a straight waistband is a good possibility for me.  I didn’t like the faced waistband. It felt like the waistband was falling off resulting in my constantly hitching up the waistband and then pulling down into place.  I do tolerate the faced waistband on some patterns (like TJ906). I prefer a waistband to hug my body and give me the feel of support at the waist.  I want to know that my pants are not sliding off.  (Plumber’ Butt is neither friend nor goal). Either the straight or contoured waistband (added during Fabric2) felt comfortable during wear. But the contour waistband added a mess of wrinkles I was unable to resolve. Removing the contour WB and adding a straight WB seemed to solve all the crotch/waist issues seen in both faced and contoured versions. But I had unsolved wrinkles in both front and back. Starting with a known fit at the waist was greatly helpful.  If the designer forbids me to use a straight waistband… I mean if I’m in some kind of copyright violation than,,, crap,,, I throw the pattern away and move along to something more forgiving.
  • The pattern alterations I made always bothered me.
    • 2″ additional to the back crotch length seemed excessive.
    • That 2″ could not be added without trimming 3/8″ from the center back and reshaping the back crotch rise.
    • Shortening the legs at only one point, (roughly 5″ below my knee)… well just never felt right. I mean my figure is not straight up and down.  I can’t alter my clothes like a pair of drapes.  I can’t just whack off so many inches from the bottom or top and expect everything in between to be fine; and yet that is what I’m doing.  In one place, I’m whacking off 3″ and expecting the entire front and back, upper and lower, leg to be perfect..
  • I know a bottom weight fabric is usually the best choice for a bottom (pants, skirts) garments.  I’m unsure my previous choices fully met the requirements.  The sheeting used in Fabric 1, the first sample, definitely wasn’t a bottom weight.  I concede that certain styles could make elegant use of sheeting into pants.  I can envision myself walking along the beach, with loose sheeting-fabric pants. But I’m hoping to create a basic pattern which can be utilized as my personal basic pant block.  Sheeting definitely wasn’t the ticket.  I’m unsure about the cotton/poly linen look used in Fabric 2.  I know I’ve successfully used similar fabrics in the past as trousers/slacks. It’s entirely possible that this fabric would work.  But honestly thought I had a basic pant pattern and this linen-look fabric would be ideal.  I really thought I’d chosen an excellent fabric  in a so-so (lilac pants anyone) color. I need to ensure that the next fabric is without a doubt a good, all-around garment-bottom weight fabric.


FABRIC 1, the Sample prescribed by the designer was constructed with cotton sheeting

(eh,, No pics. I didn’t want to share sights of my underwear) I traced a straight size 16 pattern; basted together and pinned together in the front. CJ’s instruction would have me pinned together in the back but I’m not dexterous enough to accompish this neatly. In fact, I rather thought I might injury myself. Using CJ’s method of splitting the sample across the back crotch and allowing the pant to open as “it” desired dictated a 2″ addition to the back crotch length. After this addition the pant felt comfortable. The WB raised properly into position (both front and back) and I excitedly proceeded to the next step.



FABRIC 2 , This was to be my first “real” pair of pants from pattern CJ1010. I altered the tissue by adding 2″ to the back crotch length and 3/8″ to the side seam allowances. I chose to construct this real pair of paints with a suiting quality, cotton/poly, linen-look, fabric -perfect for spring and summer wear. I set up the camera and snapped away at this trial:


.. which was decidedly too large.   I needed to take in the side seams just to estimate the fitting issues:


I’m sorry to say, I’m never sure the pants of Fabric #2  ever actually improved. Despite numerous attempts at taking in and letting out of seams and darts; adding a contour and straight WB and repeating the seam tweaks:


They just never reached a Proud To Wear Status, like my JSM’s in March:


JSM completed March 2012