originally published 4/9/12
If you missed it, read the previous post. I summarized my actions and directions with Christine Jonsons Pants for Woven Fabric Pattern #1010 . Everything I tried with Fabric 2 did not seem to make the pants better. I felt I’d lost my way and decided to begin again, or in today’s parlance: DO OVER. Thus:
Pattern: I traced a straight 16 back then added a 1″ wedge to the back crotch. This minimized changes to the back crotch. I did have to re-align the back crotch by a sliver, no more than 1/16″. I felt much better knowing that I was not making a great change did decide to make the crotch a sliver more instead of a sliver less. My reason being that I could trim out easily enough, but adding even a sliver doesn’t always work. I retained the 3″ shortening of the legs. I’ve not grown taller or shrunk and the leg length alteration makes mathematical sense. I am 5’3″. Patterns are designed for the 5’6″ woman i.e patterns are designed for someone 3″ taller than myself. Removing 3″ of length has got to happen some place some time.
I choose my fabric carefully: On the one hand, I need to choose a no-question-about-it bottom/pant-weight fabric. OTOH I’m not sure I want to cut and trash yet another fabric during testing of a pattern I’m not convinced can be fit to my figure. The X wrinkles are scaring me and if this pattern was all that easy to fit, why have I totally discarded 2 fabrics. I did find THE PERFECT FABRIC…in my own stash. I have a medium weight cotton twill in a green-aqua. I’ve purchased RTW pants and made my own pants from this fabric or it’s clone. It’s perfect for this effort because the twill side is discolored. The twill side has faded regularly-irregularly. That means there are some typical horizontal and vertical fadings along would-be folds or center of the fabric. But there’s also some unusual spotting and bleeding all on the twill side. The reverse side- which reminds me of duopioni- is perfect. I decide to use the reverse as the public side. If this is a bomb-no harm done. The fabric had limited use as a muslin anyway. If this is a fireworks-display success, the duopioni side adds an interesting texture.
So I give it shot. I want to repeat the Pattern Alterations Are Limited to
- 1″ added to back crotch length
- 3″ subtracted from leg length
- Waistband facings substituted with my personally fitted and dependable, straight waistband.
… ok maybe not. But I”m most impressed that the front folds of ease have diminished greatly.
Let me show that in context from unfitted Fabric #2 to current:
The newest pair is (as you are looking at the pic) on the far right and green. I know there is still room for improvement…. BUT…. These pants don’t look humongous. Rather, they reveal my shapely figure (albeit: PEAR) and they do that with a much firmer fabric WHILE still feeling comfortable. There are much less in the way of “C” shape folds surrounding the good china. I could wear these as I normally style myself, i.e. mid-thigh or high hip length blouses and the short comings of it would be unnoticed.
Whenever I’m fitting, I keep in mind that the body in motion will produce wrinkles. Most people have little concept as to what fits or does not fit because they can’t identify a fitting wrinkle from a movement wrinkle.
Proceeding to the back:
… is even more encouraging. Fabric 3 is a somewhat crisp fabric. It retains it’s inherent shape but it does conform enough that you can see a shapely middle-aged body rather than an aged body that has completely collapsed in upon itself. Again we’re looking at the green pants on the far right. The X wrinkle is not complete. In fact the lower leg seems devoid of error. Should the pants not be creeping in between my cheeks, I might ignore all else. But it is. I do not want my cheeks so clearly defined. It is uncomfortable as well as unattractive. I know I can have better. I know excellent fitting pants are possible:
And so while Fabric 3 has undoubted improved the fit of CJ1010, I’m asking myself, is it worth it to proceed? Should I consider this DO_OVER, DONE?
Special note to my Sewing Angel: Please do not feel bad for having suggested this experiment. I’m always hopeful that the next patten will fit with minimal adjustments. You may enable me by pointing out new patterns and methods, but you are not responsible for my decision to or not to accept the challenge. I very much enjoy hearing from you and exploring your discoveries. Without your encouragement and suggestions, I would not have any pants which fit me. I do believe the only reason I have pants I love, is because you said “here, try this”. Thank you. Thank you so much for sharing, encouraging and yes enabling.