902

TJ902: I tire of making muslins

originally published3/4/12

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You knew that was coming.

 

The WB of TJ902 Muslin 3, finally fits. But there are obvious other problems.  I have sagging under the seat, across the thighs and onto the front but the measurements now agree. If ever a pant begged for a fish-eye dart under the but!t, it is this pair. That can’t be looked into yet, because the back crotch is still off and I detect that the front crotch is pulling just slightly at the top center front. Yet the measurements are right.

 

I had issues with the front and back knee not lining up.  The front is clearly 3/4″ higher than the back.  Carefully I pressed the tissue and remeasured.  The knees are correct on the tracing. Either I transferred the markings incorrectly or this dang fabric is to blame.

 

I walked the seams. My front side seam is 1/8″ longer than the back.  I measure carefully, in several places.  I discover that when I added to the total length of the rise, I added 1/8″ more at the side than in the front.

 

I’m measuring and examining in detail because, these pants should be fine.  I’m wearing JSM’s in corduroy. (I’m using the JSM trouser for my compariosn with the TJ trouser) Non-stretch corduroy is unforgiving.   All critical areas of TJ902 measure the same as JSM.  In some areas the (hip, thigh) the ease is greater than JSM.  I should be experiencing a little extra fullness across my hip an thigh areas. There is only one place where I have significantly less ease.  That is the back thigh on the leg under the bu!t.  I’ve always disliked JSM’s extra ease in this area but loved the rest of the fit and haven’t take the time to tweak the JSM pattern.

 

My tweaks to Muslin 3 (in preparation for Muslin 4)

*back darts reduced to 3/8 wide.- measure to check

*back crotch extension 1/4″ longer

*ensure front and back knees match

*side seams walked and educed front side seam 1/8″

back inseam 3/4″ longer than front – easing will be needed.– JSM are not eased or hardly eased. Ditto TJ906 but the crotch of 902 matches the crotche of 906 in shape and measure.

 

But really these are minor adjustments and I just don’t see them solving my fit issues.  (Note the photo of the front was too blurred to use.)

 

The waistband feels comfortable.  I detect a slight pulling downward on the center front while the back and side WB appear level.  The common wisdom would say add to the center front crotch length but  clearly

the back crotch is too short. On the pattern the crotch comes to a very sharp point. I trimmed the point thinking it was useless and then found that during the back inseam easing up and above the edge of the front inseam.  The back inseam is nearly 1.5 inches longer than the front.  As noted above, neither the JSM and TJ906 patterns have that much inseam ease.  Is it needed? For Muslin 3, I added 1/2″ to the crotch extension. I think I lost 1/4″ of that when I trimmed the point.  So in reality, I added 1/4″ to the  crotch extension of #3. Did I add enough? My JSM pattern has a full inch more in the back extension (I put it there). My 906 has only 1/2″ extra (also my alteration).  This 902 looks and measures exactly as the final 906 which gave me so much applause from the last pair of jeans.

 

In Muslin 3 I was expecting

  • the WB to fit
  • the crotch (both front and back) to fit
  • a little extra ease over the hip/thigh/rear
  • a little less ease across the back thigh.
  • absence of any portion of the X wrinkles. Since I corrected the knee cylinder before Muslin2, I’m not expecting any wrinkles from the knee.  The knee has 5″ of ease.  The leg has been shorten 2″ above the knee i.e there is less length over the thigh bone. I’m just not expecting excess folds of fabric in the back between knee and thigh.

 

What I’m seeing on Muslin 3:

  • A bit too much ease across the hip/rear
  • Way too much ease/width in the front, side, and back thigh area
  • Diagonal folds across the thigh and into the side.  The front view sort of droops, like the side seams are now too long.  Importantly, I’m not seeing drag lines at the knee. I do see folds of fabric suggesting to much ease or length.  I don’t want these trousers any shorter.
  • Back crotch is still pulling fabric (but not at the waist). Coupled with the pull at the center front and the fact that the JSM extension is a full 1″ longer, I’m thinking the back extension needs additional length.

But I think the biggest problem with Mulsin 3 is the fabric.  Recall Muslin 1 in the beefy poly/maybe-wool but 1 size too small (left below) and compare with muslin 3 (right below) of 100% cotton

 

I actually prefer the appearance of the size too small (left above). The lack of body in the fabric of Muslin 3, makes it more susceptible to static cling. It doesn’t want to hang but catches and get’s hung-up everywhere. I would really have liked to use this color, fiber and weave for a spring/summer pant. It would have been comfortable to wear but it looks awful. It is not working for a trouser cut with straight waistband, straight leg, and 17.5″ hem. I’ve decided to choose a different fabric and proceed to Muslin 4. I’m wanting light colored fabrics because they show the wrinkles and folds most clearly.  I have the capability of lightening the pics, but I still think the dark hides things I need to see.  My pickings however are getting slim.  I’m getting into the “oh I want to keep that for something good” mode.  It’s hard to sacrifice “good” fabric.

 

Warning:  I feel in the mood for multiple daily posts.  I’m thinking my way through this fitting process. Writing helps. So there may be multiple posts until I get this clear.

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