902, template

Measuring TJ 902

originally published3/3/12


So now to put this new found information to work.  I have high hopes for TJ902 because TJ906 was such a roaring success.  Usually, designers and pattern cutters have a template that they use to create new designs. Or so I’ve been told.  I’ve been told that they draft once and alter forever.  If so, TJ902 should be very similar to TJ906.  Here’s the  differences I see just from the envelopes.  TJ906 is a designer jean and is distinctive from TJ902 (the new-to-me pattern) in several ways.  TJ902 is a classic trouser. TJ902 has a straight waistband and a slant side pocket.  It would appear to have more ease over all than the jean TJ906 and I would expect that. I mean don’t your good fitting jeans almost cling to your shape?  A trouser by definition has more built in ease.


I start comparing measurements not with TJ906 but with Burda 143.  143 is also a trouser pattern and as I noted in previous posts the measurements between all my favorite patterns are very close. I compare and subtract the differences front and back of those 10 length and circumference measurements.


Waistband:  TJ902  ends at the waist and uses a straight waistband.  Instead of tweaking a new waistband, I’m going to use the same straight waistband that I use for 143 and JSM pants.


Waist: I find that the back of TJ902 is 1″ narrower.  If I eliminate the dart the measurements work, so that’s what I’ll do.  The front is fine at the waist.


High Hip, Abdomen, Divot, and Hip:  There are various increases in ease in each of these areas which I’m not going to change.  As long as the measurements of 902 are larger than 143, I’m going to assume that additional ease has been added to achieve the design TJ wanted.   I will be basting these pants together and can subtract ease at the first try-on if I don’t feel it is flattering.


The Thigh has .75″ too much on front and is needs 1.25 inches on the back a net of .5″. I often note too much ease across the back thigh.  I’m going to leave this alone.  If needed I can steal some ease from the SA’s.


Knee is too small by 1″ in the front and .25″ in the back, net 1.25. I”ll need to add some ease here because it gets worse at the FatKnee


The FatKnee is  missing .75″ in front and 1″ in back net 1.75″.  At the knee I will 1/4″ to each side both front and back.  I’m adding a total of 2″ to the knee cylinder.  Yeah, what’s a knee cylinder?  The area from 1″ above to 2.5″ below my mid-knee. If I’ve added  too much, I can always slim the knee and pant down at the first try-on.


Ankle is OK. T this pattern seems to have added .5″ to the front and taken the same amount from the back. It’s something I want to be aware of, but won’t necessarily change this first time.


Crotch: Front crotch is right on but the back is .25″ longer.  I’m not going to change this for 2 reasons. 1) TJ902 is designed to sit at the waist and then have a straight waistband ending 1″ above the waist.  I may need that .25″.  If I don’t it’s a small amount that can easily be taken out at the first try on.  (2) The crotch curve is that beautiful deep Fish Hook shape that I think is best for me.  There is 3.5″ in the back extension which should be more than adequate.


Every time I see discussions or articles on ease, they’re always about circumference ease.  But I’m now looking at where the shaping hits me vertically and questioning the concept of lengthwise ease.  Is the shaping supposed to hit exactly on the lengthwise plane?  I mean consider these two shapes.


The straight line is like I measured downwards on the pattern to mark the various measurements (waist, high hip, etc). But the curve is more like my front looks like from the side.  I think that a tape measure curving over the center front of my body, like #2 would be longer than the straight line down the front of the pattern, like #1). Which has me asking: Is there such a thing as a lengthwise ease?  Am I measuring the circumferences on the pattern at the right distance from the waist?  It is most obvious at the :


Knee and Fat Knee because on the pattern the Knee is 27.25″ from the waist, Fat Knee is 29.25″ from the waist and I’ve noted on my body these landmarks occur at 21 and 23.5 inches respectively but that’s measuring straight down and not over the contours of my body.  For the time being, I’ve removed 2 inches in length from above the knee.  My reasoning is the trouser was designed for someone about 5’6″ . Since I’m 5’3″ and know from experience that 1 inch must be removed above the waist (for tops to fit), that means I still need to adapt for another 2″ in length.  Since the knee and fatknee are both well below (closer to 4″) the point they fall on my body, I’m going to assume that the length of my thigh bone is shorter than what designer use and that’s where I need to remove the remaining length.    We’ll know at the first fitting, because I will baste the line on the the pants.


I can foresee some changes to this method of altering a new pants pattern. Since it is so much math,  I want to create a worksheet to record the numbers and automatically calculate the differences.  I’m hoping to slim those circumferences -not through diet and exercise- but by determining the minimums I can comfortably wear or what they call wearing ease.  I’ve realized that I’m essentially copying the designers by discovering the well kept secret of the measurements used for their slopers i.e. reverse engineering. But I’m going take it one step further by creating a personalized template useless to anyone but me.