JSM: CrotchFitting

originally published3/31/12


I think I got my fitting order out-of-order.


The WAISTBAND absolutely must be my first area to fit.  My waist is the hanger for the pants and it is the waistband that sits on the hanger.  If the waistband is not correctly fitted, there are numerous wrinkles and folds for which there is no cure; and the ones I do cure will have to be reversed.


So I fitted the waistband but then I looked at the side seam. In retrospect the sideseam should not have been checked at this point.  Because I tweaked to correct the side seam and then made 5 more alterations trying to remove the the wrinkles across my lower back.  They’d improve one time and be back the next.  I started wondering if I was looking at length when I should be looking at width.  In sheer desperation, I ripped out the side seams from 2″ below the waist to 10″ below the waist.  I had plenty ease then but no improvement to the low back wrinkles. The problem was I was trying to correct the side seams and the low back wrinkles before I’d fitted the crotch.


You know what I did.  I scooped out the crotch bottom of pant back.  I used the back crotch pattern from TJ906 and super-imposed it over the pattern so I could draw the same curve on this pattern as the wonderful fitting TJ906.  I was tired of fighting this  and know that eventually I always scoop out the crotch anyway so I gave it try now. Dang crotch felt pretty good and most of the wrinkles were gone, but I still had that big bubble under the back waistband and the bubble in the front.




So I carefully measured and removed, at the waist, 1″ from the center back, 1/2″ from each side and 1/4″ from the center front. You’ve got to see this.  Not only is the crotch perfect, but the lower back wrinkles ARE GONE!



Next I need to check the knee position I can’t correct that and it really doesn’t matter on this pair of trouser pants.  What I’m doing now is building a nice basic pattern I can use for a blue print to fit other styles and a fitting order to use in the future when my weight drops requiring smaller sized clothing.  So while the knee is not critical for this pair, I do want to identify on my pattern when I need it for those future pairs of pants. I don’t plan to take or share pics.


Then it’s time to stitch those side seams up again, however, I believe that right now I’m going to pin them together checking for ease.  I have a feeling I’m not going to be pinning an even 5/8 on both front or back.