CJ1010: Preparing for the “real” pants.

originally published 4/7/12


Now that the sample is done, I turn my attention to the possibility of the first “real” pair of pants from this pattern.

I apologize for not sharing the pattern pic in previous posts.  I usually like to show the pattern so you have some idea what I’m trying to create.  There are two versions of pants in the envelope. One is a trouser and the other, a flare leg.   I’m always complaining about the excess ease in back of the thigh on trouser pants.  So when I saw how the back leg of the 1010 flare pant was shapped, I just had to try it.


I made the “Sample” of the flair pants in a thin sheeting. For the first “real”  pair of 1010 pants, I wanted to use some of my best fabric and then again I didn’t.  I didn’t take pics of the sample garment.  I didn’t want to post a pic of my rear in underwear which  the sheeting revealed.  I also didn’t trust the sample with big patch to accurately indicate fit wrinkles. The sheeting readily wrinkled on its own. The big slash I put across the back and then pinning a separate scrap to it changed the wrinkles and added lots of new ones.


I’d really do want this pattern to work for me. So I’ve discarded the wrinkle information of the sample. I’m working from the point of view that  the altered crotch felt comfortable and with enough ease, the pant could be fit to me.    I would be thrilled if it only took 2 alterations to get any pant pattern to fit me. So I’m determined to give it a chance. I chose a fabric with a good hand for a bottom.  It is a cotton/poly blend.  I happen to like blends. I think you get the best of both fibers.  This blend resists wrinkles and seems to drape nicely for pants when wrapped around Mimi (dressform).   I also decided not to change where the waistline of the pant falls on my body.  It is doing what it is designed to do.  This first time, I’m just simply going to accept that the pant will hang about an inch below my natural waist.  I will add belt loops.  A belt is my insurance that the pants will fit at the waistline no matter what size my waist is today.  I also will add a front zipper.  It is my preferred closure for pants.  If the design won’t work with a front zipper, well I don’t want it anyway.


From what I can see, size 16 should fit me just fine. But I may have to make some fitting tweaks (when do I not, eh?) and for that reason I’d like more ease for this pair.  So I’m adding 3/8″ to each side seam, that’s a total of 1.5″ ease.  I’m not adding to the inseams or the crotch.