JSM

2012JSM: Fitting Progress – Side Seams

originally published 3/31/12

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“Back so soon?” you ask. Well yes, this is the way I fit.  I baste it all together and then perfect one thing at a time.  Often I spend 5 minutes sewing, 10 minutes with photos and 30 minutes ripping (or unsewing.) Oh and repeat. But for me it’s faster than saying, I have to fix a,b,c. Then I fix a,b,c. Only to find that b,c need to be reversed and now d,e need something which when corrected affects a. It’s best for me to make sure that a is fixed then go onto b.  If b is good but now a is off, well I fix a, check b and go on, or maybe fix b some more.

 

I was looking at two things from the previous post.  I’d lost the necessary ease I needed across my rear.  I could kick myself for not following my own advice.  I felt that I was swimming in fabric and couldn’t resist “tweaking that just a little right now.” So of course, I had to rip it out. But it was worth it, I like the way these fit across my but!.

Not fit is very subjective and personal.  I know some people who detest the “uni-butt” look.  I know some that insist their back side should look high, firm and separated (remember the cross-your-heart bras?). I’m not of either camp, yet, I do like my rear to have a little perk and definition. I think that’s what I’m getting here and I hope it lasts during the rest of the fitting. Because I’m really not even beginning to consider the fit across the lower hip.

 

What I’m most concerned with is the side seam.  The side seam was leaning from the waist front towards the back ankle.  While at the computer, I postulated that the cause might be my “guessing” where the side seam should be aligned on the waistband. I know I do not fit the standard.  My waist measurement cannot be evenly quartered, marked to correspond with my actual body landmarks.  At the waist, I am wider in the front than across the back. That’s true down to my abdomen and just above the butt where suddenly, I’m slim in front and well padded in the rear.  Anyway, that was my thinking when saying, hmmm do I have the side seams properly aligned on the waistband?

 

Downstairs I went for some quality time with the seam ripper.  I’m so glad for Netflix.  I can do this work I really don’t care for in an entertaining environment.  With my mind and hands thus occupied my left brain had a chance to say “it’s not where the sides are placed, it’s how long the front is.  Oh yeah, that was the answer:

 

I marked a line 1/4″ down at the center front and lined the waistband edge up with that line.  I eased the waistband across the waist slowly at an uphill angle so that when reaching the side seams, the waist was once again level. The pants are now hanging nicely from the waist all the way to the ankle.  Some of the folds have even been taken out of the leg.  I’m reluctant to remove any more length from this area.  I’m not sure how much an effect 1/6″ would make anyway. Besides it is beginning to feel and look a little close in the front:

 

 

The question is should I let a little out at the center front? Or go with this. There is a slight hint of camel toe only seen because these pics have been lightened. Actually I used the shadows tool and removed 85% of the shadowing. The effect is in the pic you can see folds and wrinkles you might not otherwise see.  I also question are those horizontal folds that suggest camel toe, really from camel toe or from the fact that there is too much ease across the front.  I’m calling the SIDESEAMS DONE, but allowing myself the option of working on them again during the fitting process.  The next wrinkles I really want to remove are across the lower back.

When the waistband fits, the pant is prevented from moving upwards beyond it.  So if there is too much length here, or not enough ease lower down, wrinkles begin forming.  I’m first concerned about the bubble directly below the waistband.

Honestly, the butt does not feel tight.  I don’t see a vortex disappearing into my……  To me, the back crotch neither looks or feels too short.  Because of the way I added a triangle to the top of the pants with a peak at the center back, I thought early on that I would need to true or level that off a bit.  I think the bubble is telling me how much.  My concern is smoothing out the diagonal lines.  I’m wondering if I should true the 1/4″ from front across sides and to the back.  The good thing about these alterations, is I can baste it in; if the results are to my satisfaction—out it goes.

 

Ah back to Netflix.

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