2012JSM: Drafting?

originally published 3/28/12


I spent some more time contemplating what had happened with the pattern.  Still asking myself why did the blue pull-on trousers fit absolutely beautifully, while the brown plaid was barely wearable? I pulled out the master pattern for my JSM and compared my traced and altered version.  There really wasn’t a whole lot of difference.  I dwaddled for a while and then decided maybe this was the time to finally draft my own.


I’m using the instruction booklet from Trudy Jansen and recently taken measurements for the SFD system.  I drafted the front. Twice.  The first time I was trying to work with inches converting to cm’s only when absolutely needed.  The resulting front would not have fit me.  To avoid confusion, I convered all my  body measurements to cm’s and redrafted. Only took two hours to achieve a usable front.


You know what?  It looked a whole lot like the JSM master pattern I just folded and put away 2 hours ago.  There were some significant diffierences in the curves.  My instruction booklet just says to draw a curve between points x, y z and I shifted my designers curve until the points matched up along a single curve.  I’m really reluctant to use the curves I drew, because they don’t look a lot like the cuves from Trudy Jansen’s patterns (TJ906) nor the JSM pattern which has worked so well for me. I also decide, I really don’t want to draft the back.  Sure I’d probably get through it in half the time as the front, but I would be producing what I already have i.e. the JSM back.


Back to square one. The JSM pattern includes an option for a plus sized figure.  Primarily it adds some ease between hip and waist.  I decide to trace the JSM, with the plus size option, but with some of my own tweaks. For one, I shift the tissue while drawing so that the knee is 1″ high on my tissue than on the master pattern.  I do the same thing for the hem.  I’ve effectively removed 2″ in length (which I need to do because I’m 3″ shorter than figure for which the original was drafted).  Importantly, I’ve removed the length so that the shaping and ease for the knee falls where my knee will be.


I also add 1″ to the back crotch length.  I’ve know I’ve shared this sketch before:


The standard for adding length to the crotch, is to slash from the center almost to the side and then spread until a wedge develops that will be the same as the amount of length that needs to be added. I’ve done this for years; and for years I’ve complained about the back thigh wrinkles.  Slashing and spreading, distorts pattern. It creates this ski-slope along the center back; and tips the side seam outwards.  The U which is formed when back and front are placed next to each other


is also distorted. It’s now wider at the top.  I’ve always wondered if that has some effect upon the final fit.  I have this vision of how during wear the center- back waist now has to be pulled next to the body, also the side-back waist has to be shifted towards the center back.  I know for a fact, that when you pull at one point on any fabric it shifts the fabric around.  Maybe if I was adding 1/4 or 1/2″, the effect wouldn’t be startling when viewing the pattern shape and of course wouldn’t have that much effect on the garment. Such as the difference between pulling a little bit on fabric, or taking a handful and giving it a bit stretch.  I decided to put the extra length exactly where I needed it.  I extended the back crotch straight up for 1″ then redrew the waistline.  It looks a lot like this


with everything the same color and that aqua triangle is part of the back pattern piece.


So I’ve traced the pattern pieces with the plus option, giving me a little more girth in my girdle area. I’ve also shortened the pant, aligning the knee shaping with my body’s knee; and added the extra inch that I need on the back crotch.


I stared at it a long time. Kept comparing the new tracing with the master pattern and the previous tracings. I nearly always need to add to the back crotch extension.  Oddly the extension of master pattern, and the new tracing already match the extension of the previous pattern which has 3/8″ added.  I don’t remember when, or why that 3/8 was added or apparently deleted??? I know only that these 3 match.  I feel really, really unease, but I leave the crotch extension alone. I haven’t done that in eons.


But I do add 3/8 to the side seams and top of both pattern pieces.  I want a little fitting room this time. I was feeling as though the crotch wasn’t deep enough with the last version.  Which is reasonable.  When you add width to the body, your garments need a bit more length as well.


So that’s the plan for the next pair of pants.