6440, template

Scratch McCalls 6440

originally published 12/14/11


In the last post the McCalls 6440 was now in the trash – still true.  I also mentioned that I altered TJ906 to have the same design feature, i.e. the 2 piece back pant leg and contoured waistband – no pockets, no back yoke.  What I didn’t mention was my confusion in choose the pattern size.  I have both a size 12 and a size 14 traced and apparently (judging from the notes on my envelopes) fitted. OK, both a size 12 and a size 14 can’t fit.  It’s got to be one or the other, right? I altered the size 12, cut the fabric (a charcoal stretch woven recently purchased from Fabricmart.com) and started sew.  I put the front zipper in permanently and then decided I should also serge the all the vertical seams.  I figured if I needed to let these out (unlikely) I wouldn’t have enough ease so why worry; also if I needed to take them in, well the seams would already be finished.  The waistband, facing and belt loops are basted into place.


I can  tell you I made the right decision. Also, that I remembered why I have a size 12 and a size 14 traced.  The size 14 is definitely needed for non-stretch fabrics.  And the 12?  Works perfectly with fabrics that contain stretch.  With apologies for the grainy photos this time a result of camera quality, cropping, software AND changing the exposure so we can see the wrinkles in this nearly black fabric:


I have a bit more to do.  In addition to sewing the waistband and facing in permanently, I also need to hem my pants add a closure (button probably) at the waist band and take in just a little in the center back leg.  I turned up the hem at 1-1/4″ it really needs to be 2″.  That’s what is marked on my pattern and I’m not sure why I didn’t follow my notes.  1-1/4 used to be my standard. But with experience I’ve changed to 2″ . 2″ adds just a bit more weight in the leg to help it hang nicely.  This pair will definitely be replacing 6440 sewn and shared previously.  It’s a much nicer pant because of both fabric choice and fitting but with the same styling.



I’m wearing my TJ906 styled as 6440 today. They are wonderful.  A lot has to do with the fabric itself; and I quickly learned that because of the width of the waistband/yoke, I really need to wear my 3″ wide belt. The 1″ belt just doesn’t hold them up in place.  The fabric is from fabricmart.com but I’m saying which exact fabrc—yet.  I love this fabric so much I want more.  I just can’t decided if I want 2,4 or 6 yards especially since there’s only 20 yards left!@@@@@


*** Just a note about the coordinating Vest Vogue 8756.  I got pics of the 4 Tucks!

The good is, it’s beginning to snug my body as I would like.  The bad is that the 4 tucks releasing at the waist look a little ugly.  I think I’m going to change the tucks to darts.  I’m not sure how long I’ll keep using this particular vest.  I like the style, but I think the length (ending just above my bu!!) and the fabric are both less than desirable.  For sure, I’ll keep it as part of this years Winter 6PAC.  But it could be gone next year.


ETA DH has weighed in on this vest as well.  He doesn’t like it because from the side view it makes me look like I have a big beer belly.  So I won’t keep  this vest.  He rarely makes negative comments on what I wear so I know it must have really caught his attention and I should pay attention too.  He’s my biggest fan and supporter.